Netherlands 3

 15-19 Sept

Across the great divide

The next stage of the trip to Hindeloopen had a dramatic start as we drove over the 20 mile Afsluitdijk joining the provinces of North Holland to Friesland. Construction started in 1927 and the two ends met in 1932 and there is a monument at that point to mark the spot. Unfortunately the stopping place there was closed. 

About two thirds across there is a visitor centre which goes into great detail by audio guide about the construction of the dyke and its impact, some of which we had already learned at Enkhuizen. The dyke is now being reinforced, both in height and width and being clad with special blocks to withstand the funnelled waters from the North Sea. There was a viewpoint from the top of the visitor centre but we didn't think you got the true feeling of being in the middle of the surrounding waters because of the higher level of the dyke on the Waddensee side.

On the first evening in Hindeloopen we had a pleasant stroll into the town, which is located on the banks of the Ijsselmeer.

Hindeloopen

The next day we had a pleasant cycle ride by the water to the nearby town of Stavoren, a bustling harbour, where we watched some superb manoeuvring of a 50 foot plus wooden boat. There was also an unusual water fountain in the form of a giant fish.

From Hindeloopen we travelled to a site near Hooghalen, south of Assen. On the way we visited the Woudagemaal pumping station, the largest steam pumping station in the world, which is a world heritage site. It was originally powered by coal but now uses blue diesel. Nowadays it is only used when water levels are extremely high and other pumping stations (such as one at Stavoren which we missed) cannot cope. Its pumping capacity is 67 cubic metres per second, that's the content of an Olympic swimming pool every three seconds! 

Our guide, Richard, was excellent in terms of detail and his English, as he led us around the machinery inside the station and the surrounding area outside. It was all fascinating stuff; a few more facts are shown on one of the attached photos and the website is www.woudagemaal.nl.

The Hooghalen site was particularly spacious and peaceful and we had some friendly Dutch neighbours. In preparation for another day of historical education at Camp Westerbork we then gave our brains a day off with a pleasant cycle ride through the Drentsche Aa national park and found the excellent cafe / restaurant "Gerrie" at Grolloo.

As expected Camp Westerbork was a sombre experience. It was originally built to house Jewish refugees after Kristallnacht. However, once the Germans occupied the Netherlands it became an internment and transportation camp. The memorial depicts a railway line with 93 sleepers, one for every transportation between 1942 and 1944 and the damaged, curved tracks at the end represent the Jews with outstretched arms. 

Lest we forget

Further on 102,000 red blocks representing all those who were transported and died are set into grey and black blocks forming a huge map of the Netherlands. The different sized red blocks show the range of ages. There were also two indoor exhibitions, the first more factual, the second exploring how the camp has been remembered in the intervening years and how it should be remembered in the future.

Netherlands 2

 8 to 14 Sept

Turn back time

The ferry to Texel was extremely efficient; there was no check in, just vehicle number plate recognition. Once on board we barely had time to drink a cup of coffee in the seating area before we were driving off again. 

While on the island we did a short cycle ride around the de Waal nature reserve and a longer one from near Oudeschilde, where we were staying, on the dyke along the east coast as far as De Cocksdorp at the northern end. 

The cycle routes are easy to follow; junctions have a number (knooppunt) making it straightforward to go from one to another. Despite this we did manage to miss a turning, the plus side being we passed an enterprising dairy farm with a soft ice cream vending machine (there was another for milk - less interesting!)

On the final day it was forecast to be quite wet so we drove the van to the lighthouse at the northern end of the island, and had a brief walk on the fabulous beach before climbing the 118 steps to the top of the lighthouse. It was so windy on the outside that you could barely walk.

Heading back south we stopped off at the De Slufter nature reserve and walked towards the sea but the birds seemed to be hunkering down out of the wind and showers.

After disembarking from the return ferry we stopped at the navy museum just outside the ferry port. It comprised an indoor historical exhibition and several ships outside including a minesweeper, a ram and a submarine. It was fascinating to explore the ships, especially the submarine, which brought home what a tiny space 70 submariners had to live and work in.

An hour's journey in the wind and rain took us to Enkhuizen. Fortunately it had dried up by the evening and we were able to walk into town and find a restaurant for dinner. Lava turned out to be such a good choice that we went again a couple of nights later.

There were two reasons for visiting Enkhuizen. One was the Zeiderzee Museum, a collection of about 140 buildings rescued from various towns in the vicinity to show how life was before the Afsluitdijk was constructed across the Zeidersee, turning the sea water into the freshwater lakes of the Ijsselmeer and Markermeer, thereby destroying the fishing industry. The museum was brilliant; many of the buildings were furnished and equipped in such great detail and volunteers were playing the part of former inhabitants. 

The steam laundry

Inside the laundry

We saw a garden hospital, that is a summer house you could rent, vital for recovery from illnesses such as TB and pleurisy before antibiotics came on the scene. 

The garden hospital

We needed more time than we had and never made it to the additional indoor museum.

The second attraction at Enkhuizen was to complete the triangular route to Medemblik (by boat), to Hoorn (by steam tram) and back to Enkhuizen (by the regular train service).

Our final day was a little more leisurely with a walk into town, where there is an amazing and very tempting cheese shop, plus a cycle ride to the De Ven lighthouse and along the Vest dyke which encircles much of the town. 

View from the Vest dyke

Netherlands 1

2-8 Sept

China in your hand

Our journey to the Harwich ferry terminal began with the A14 being closed and having to use the alternative route via M11 and A120. It was a smooth overnight crossing and we were in the supermarket, Albert Heijn, before nine. A short drive took us to the visitor centre at the storm surge barrier on the Nieuwe Waterweg. Unfortunately they had a power cut when we arrived but we hung around until it was resolved and were so glad we did. We had an hour-long guided tour in English (just the two of us) with a twenty-something year old student, Joris, who explained the geography of the area leading to the threat of flooding and the building and operation of the barrier, comprising two arms, each 240 metres long. 

From there we went on to Delft for two nights, where we travelled into town using the excellent bus service. We visited the Royal Delft museum, exhibition and factory. The history was revealed by film, audio guide and panels on the wall and we discovered that Royal Delft has also produced architectural features and tiles at certain times in its history. 

After a very nice lunch in their cafe overlooking the courtyard we wandered along the Koornmarkt by one of the canals, admiring the only remaining windmill and the gate at the Oostpoort. It was a spur of the moment decision to have a boat trip on the canal, our driver and guide being another student. As well as the serious information he imparted, there were some fun facts too. Delft has a large university and each year 800 bikes are fished out of the canals. Also the old lunatic asylum is now student accommodation, so no real change there! He did a fantastic job of manoeuvring the long boat around 90 degree turns. 

Oostpoort

Our day ended with cocktails and dinner at Moeke's on Beestenmarkt to celebrate our wedding anniversary.

On the way to Alkmaar, our next destination, we visited the Cruquius Pumping Station. The Haarlemmermeer was a huge lake important for transport, and a source of fish and peat. However, during storms the lake presented a risk of flooding Amsterdam, Haarlem and Leiden.  In 1651 a heavy storm combined with spring tides caused extensive flooding in Amsterdam after which there were several plans to drain the Haalemmermeer. None were initiated until 1836 when King Wilhelm I made the decision to build three steam pumping stations, one of them the Cruquius, and the lake was completely drained in four years and one month.

Once settled at Camping Alkmaar we did a trial run into town on our bikes, which only took ten minutes along cycle ways which seem to have priority over everything. Once in town we located the underground garage for bike storage with attendant, which we felt was pretty secure.

Next day we repeated the journey in order to visit one of the last remaining cheese markets in the Netherlands. When we arrived hundreds of Gouda-type cheeses were already stacked in the square and bells were ringing from the building where the cheeses were weighed (originally a chapel and hospital for the poor and pilgrims). Cheeses are not actually traded here now but the procedure of carrying the cheeses on special carriers to be weighed (8 cheeses @ 12-13 kg plus the carrier - 25 kg - is a hefty load) and then loading them onto carts for despatch was played out.

To complete the cheese experience we visited the cheese museum and later called in at the little courtyard of Wildemanshofje, which reminded us of the patio gardens we had seen in Spain.

Another cycle ride took us to Berg aan Zee for a fish and chip lunch, Dutch style, with the return route crossing the sand dunes. Most enjoyable.

The beach at Bergen aan Zee

Next day we took the ferry to the island of Texel (pronounced Tessel in Dutch).

Outer Hebrides 6 - Harris

 31 May – 5 June

Any road will take you there 

Due to the pain in my foot and some rapid swelling I had decided to call the surgery at Tarbert, which we would pass, to see if there was a nurse or doctor I could consult. There was not, but the receptionist suggested calling the Leverburgh practice, as they had a surgery next morning, Saturday. There was an answerphone message giving a number to call if a doctor was needed urgently. Before we had had time to consider if this was necessary, the doctor had called me back, even though I had not left a message. He offered an appointment next day so we drove the 18 slow miles south. He was concerned I might have fractured the metatarsal bone so suggested we went to Stornoway Hospital (56 miles north) for an x-ray, which gave no definitive diagnosis but I was issued with a boot and crutches as a precautionary measure, pending a telephone call from the orthopaedic consultant early next week. At last, we could head off to Horgabost campsite (46 miles south) and on the way the GP called to see how I got on! He also said he would WhatsApp the x-ray to me. So not an ideal way to spend the day, (120 miles round trip) but thank you NHS Scotland for your excellent service.

Sunday was misty (or was it low cloud?) with rain and wind later. We drove to Temple Cafe, the only place we have found open on a Sunday but didn't undertake the walk from there we had planned due to my limited mobility and the weather. Then on to St Clement's Church in Rodel aka Eaglais Roghadail or Rodal Church. It dates from the late 15th or early 16th century, was built for the Chiefs of the MacLeods of Harris and is dedicated to Pope Clement I.

We parked overlooking a beach for lunch and watched black headed gulls battling against the wind and oystercatchers wading in the receding tide, before heading back to the site for a relaxing remainder of the afternoon.

The weather is so changeable here; as they say, you can have four seasons in one day. So not surprising then that we woke up to a brilliant blue sky next morning and we made the most of it by driving to beautiful Luskentyre Beach. 

The sky soon clouded over though so after lunch at Talla Na Mara there was more driving towards Huisinis.  Along this road there is a 2 mile walk to an eagle observatory, but that was no longer possible for me and parking was also difficult. We did stop to look at the remains of the old whaling station. 

Later in the day I was relieved to hear from the hospital that I hadn't sustained a fracture. Phew!

The last few days of our visit to the Outer Hebrides had definitely gone a bit to pot and the weather was not playing ball either. We woke to wind and rain, progressing to hail, on Tuesday and drove to the Seillam! exhibition about Harris and the island of St Kilda which was very interesting. Then on to the Harris Brewery near Leverburgh Ferry Terminal which made a pleasant coffee and lunch stop. Sadly, they had sold out of their own brand of beer. After that we drove along the Golden Road, so called because of the exorbitant cost of construction through the very rocky terrain and you really had to ask why on earth anyone would want to live in such a remote area. 

View along the Golden Road

Fortunately, there were more sunny intervals than showers which enhanced the journey and had given us the opportunity to rephotograph Rodal Church with a bit of blue sky.

On the final day on Harris we wanted to revisit the Waterside cafe for lunch and do a book swap for the second book in the Lewis series by Peter May. Alas, we had failed to notice it was closed on a Wednesday! Never mind, the Hebrides Hotel came to the rescue and we may have made purchases at the Loomshed Hebridean Brewery and Essence of Harris (candles, diffusers and the like)! After using the aire we found the other day to dump waste, we spent the rest of a sunny afternoon overlooking Luskentyre Beach, watching the tide come in. Very restful.

The next morning, we caught the ferry back to Skye, then on to the Morvich Caravan and Motorhome Club Site before driving down to Edinburgh to see Louise and family for a couple of days.

Outer Hebrides 5 - Lewis and Harris

 26 – 31 May

Turn to stone

From the next site (Eilean Fraoich) we set off in the rain to the Gerranan Blackhouse village, not as grand as it sounds as several of the houses are now holiday lets. However, the elderly gentleman demonstrating weaving on a 70-year-old loom was really interesting - he produced three inches of tweed in a matter of minutes - and in contrast the film showed how complicated and lengthy the set-up is. 

A short distance further on was Dun Carloway Broch, the remains of a dwelling / stronghold probably dating from the first century AD.

Despite the lack of shops there are frequent opportunities to buy crafts, eggs and treats from roadside cupboards, usually with an honesty box for payment. We stopped at a more elaborate set up, Dancing Flower Crafts, where the lady made items to sell from Harris Tweed, along with photographs, pretty glassware and other knick-nacks. We came away with a small Tweed pouch which we thought would be useful to hang in the van. Finally, we called in at the Arnol Blackhouse which depicted an earlier period than Gerranan, with its peat fire burning in the middle of one room. 

The benefits of the fire were that it killed bugs, cured meat and fish and did something to the thatch which made it good fertiliser when the roof was replaced. We also learned that when a new type of house with lime-mortared walls was introduced from the mainland 150 years ago, it was called a whitehouse and the term blackhouse was applied to older houses on Lewis.

On our way to the next site (Ardroil Beach aka Uig Sands, located immediately behind the dunes) we visited the Callenish Standing Stones and did a detour across a photogenic double bridge onto Great Bernera. The ever-narrowing road finally took us to Bosta Beach and an Iron Age house.

Callanish Stones

Bosta Beach

From the site we had a lovely walk across the enormous beach with its pink-hued boulders and saw the carving of a chessman representing the Uig Chessmen carved from walrus ivory from the 12th century, which were found nearby and believed to have come from Norway. 

We were sorry not to get to the Mangersta Stacks, but parking didn't look possible for the van and the road wasn't suitable for cycling.

It was then time to head back south to Harris via Stornoway, allowing us to revisit the Woodland Cafe. We detoured off the main road to the Ravenspoint Visitor Centre, which had an interesting museum about this area of East Lewes. The Chariots, mini submarines, were tested here during WW2 but because this stretch of water is partially fed by freshwater, the buoyancy was adversely affected and so the project had to be moved elsewhere.

The site at Lickisto is located 2.5 winding miles from the main road through rocky hills which have been described as resembling a lunar landscape! The photo speaks for itself.

While there we visited Tarbert, where there is a Harris Tweed shop and the Harris distillery, source of Harris Gin (infused with sugar kelp) and Hearach malt whisky. John had already tried and approved the peaty malt and Louise said the gin is superb so both were begging to be purchased. To dodge a rain shower we popped into the fortnightly (Friday) craft market and were amazed at the range and quality of the goods there. More money was spent after which we decided we had given the Tarbert community enough financial support and moved on.

We discovered that a French style camping aire has recently been established about a mile from Tarbert and we were sorry this had escaped our attention.

Continuing along the same road we had hoped to have a walk at Eilean Glas on the island of Scalpay but having negotiated the narrow, single track winding road with blind summits, we found that there was insufficient parking for the likes of us and had to head back again.

Plan B was to stop for a walk at Lacasdail Lochs which we had passed on the outward leg. However, fate intervened. Before we arrived there I got out of the van to take a photo and stumbled in a hole in the ground, causing a painful ankle. So that put paid to walking for the day.

Outer Hebrides 4 - Harris and Lewis

 23 - 26 May

Life in a Northern Town

It was 77 miles to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, quite a long journey as far as this trip is concerned, calling at Talla Na Mara where there are two small campsites (and a third nearby) all run by the West Harris Trust. They had all been full when we tried to book. However, we did support the restaurant for lunch. Along the first part of the route were views of more lovely beaches, and as the road veered eastwards there were numerous lochs among the rocky landscape which would have been enhanced by a bit of sunshine.

Nisabost Beach

Compared to all the peaceful places we have visited, Stornoway seemed quite busy in terms of traffic and habitation. After a one-night stop to give us chance to patronise a large supermarket - shops are going to be limited for a while - we parked at Woodlands Cafe and had a pleasant walk around the grounds of Lews Castle. The information boards explained some history of the island. It was bought by Sir James Matheson in 1844, funded from lucrative opium trade.  His wife, Lady Mary Jane, launched a school for poor girls to teach practical skills which flourished for over 50 years. In 1918 the Matheson family sold Lewis to Lord Leverhulme for £147,000, whose philanthropic plans for Stornoway were modelled on Port Sunlight in Merseyside. However, the plan was abandoned inv1923 when he gifted Lews Castle and estates to the people if Lewis.

After the history lesson we drove on to Fivepenny, part of the Ness area, at the northern end of Lewis, crossing a landscape which reminded me of Dartmoor. On arrival we were welcomed to Uncle's Croft by the owner, a small site with about 12 motorhome pitches and no facilities apart from water and electric, although you can use toilets and showers at the nearby sports centre.

From the site we walked to the coast, about a quarter of a mile away and along the way were amused to see various quirky installations which had been rescued from the tip by the site owner - a stuffed horse and tiger, old ATM, ladies’ legs and arms protruding from the ground, rusting bikes to name a few.

Our bikes enabled us to cycle to the Port of Ness which was the first man-made harbour created in rural Lewis, completed in 1837, then to the lighthouse at Butt of Ness, where we identified fulmars amongst the seabirds and also saw a seal on a rock. We came across the Wobbly Dog cafe when most needed!

Port of Ness

We enjoyed a very nice meal at The Cross Inn about a ten-minute drive from the site and used the local taxi service run by Donald (aka Dolly) next door. He was beyond retirement age but as he is the only taxi service, he felt that locals, especially the older residents, would find it difficult to get to the shops or medical appointments without him.

On leaving Uncle's Croft we stopped off at Eoropie beach for a walk. There is a memorial on the cliffs to the tragedy of the Cunndal drowning when the crews of two fishing boats were lost close to shore and in broad daylight. No assistance could be given due to the terrible surf and strong undercurrent and friends and neighbours watched helplessly from the clifftop.