Cropredy

 August 11 - 14 2022

Meet on the ledge

It was a spur of the moment decision, back in January; we saw an advert for the Cropredy Festival in the Saturday paper, and decided to book. We’d been to the Cambridge folk festival a couple of times, but only day visits, so this would be our first full-on festival experience. As a bonus, it is held only about 40 minutes away from Stratford, just north of Banbury.

The festival has been run since 1979 by the legendary folk-rock band Fairport Convention, growing over the years to encompass a lot of genres other than folk music. As the weekend drew closer, we could see it was going to be one of the hottest of the year – unusually for a festival, we didn’t pack our wellies!

On arrival at 11.00am, we were directed to pitch in field 7a; there being about 10 camping fields, some for tents and small campervans, others for larger units. The initial impressions were good; it was well organised, volunteers were friendly and helpful, and there seemed to be plenty of (clean and smart) toilets in the field. The music didn’t start until 4pm on the first day, so we had plenty of time to get organised before taking the 10-minute walk to the arena, which was visible and audible from our pitch. After a long, but swiftly moving, queue for our wristbands (for entrance/exit over the 3 days), we were in the arena in time for the first act.

All set up in the field

The stage and arena were visible from our van

The field was sloping, so even further back (as we were) there was a good view of the stage and screens. Both sides were lined with every manner of food stall, from Nepalese, through Jamaican, Mexican, and Chinese, to yer basic fish’n’chips, and the huge beer tent run by Hook Norton brewery. The rear of the field was full of children’s activities, for this is very much a family festival. It was not uncommon to see 3 generations of a family together. Although we were sharing the field with about 20,000 others, everyone was very respectful of other people’s space, and we never felt hemmed in. With the afternoon heat now over 30 degrees, Ruth retreated to the van for a while, returning after sunset; the ageing hippy of the family felt that there was too much good music to miss…

The first evening gave a good indication of the mix of music; Fairport Convention opened the show with a short acoustic set; we had reggae from Edward II, ethereal Celtic music from Clannad, with the beautiful voice of Moya Brennan, and rounded off by the veteran record producer Trevor Horn and his band recreating a string of 80’s hits with which he had been involved.

The next morning, we walked along the Oxford canal, which cuts through the festival grounds, into the village of Cropredy. The canal was lined with boats, many of which were the homes of craftspeople; John entered into the festival spirit by buying a leather wristband. 

Along the Oxford canal

The village embraces the festival; houses were decorated with scarecrows for the village scarecrow festival, the school and community centre were selling breakfasts, the two pubs were busy, with live music, and there was generally a welcoming feeling. Over the years the festival has raised money for many local charities, including the purchase of a new bell for the village church – appropriately named The Festival Bell.

Turin Brakes on stage

Over the next two days the temperature was due to hit 35 degrees, so on both days we went to the arena about 2pm, even though the music started at midday. Again, Ruth retreated to the van during the heat of the late afternoon. The variety of music was incredible; the passionate singer-songwriter Martyn Joseph, Irish jigs from the great accordion player Sharon Shannon and her band, bawdy humour from The Bar Steward Sons of Val Doonican, 70s prog-rock from Steve Hackett and Genesis Revisited, indie rock from Turin Brakes, and the American hippy rockers The Slambovian Circus of Dreams. As is normal, Fairport Convention closed the festival on Saturday night. At the end of the rousing set, the thousands in the arena joined in with the traditional closing number “Meet on the ledge”, the sound carrying over the moonlit fields.

Anticipating a rush, we were up and away early on Sunday, and home by 9.30am! Would we do it again? Definitely.

 

Meet on the ledge, we’re gonna meet on the ledge,

When my time is up, I’m gonna see all my friends….

Somerset (2)

 June 28 - July 3 2022

Strawberry fields forever

Tuesday 24 June, time to move on!  But only 7 miles up the road to the Caravan and Motorhome Club site at Cheddar.  John had agreed to a quick trip into Wells before we left so that I could buy a pair of shoes I had seen in a wonderful, independent shoe shop, Basil Powell Shoes.  Then we drove to the Cheddar Reservoir, just beyond the site, for lunch in the van and a walk beside the reservoir as far as the sailing club.  By this time we were well beyond the 1 pm check in time so proceeded to the site to get settled.  There was just time to walk into the town to get our bearings and suss out the various restaurants for a future evening (evenings?) before returning to the van for dinner and the onset of rain.

As lovely as most Club sites are, this one doesn’t quite match the Wells Touring Park.  The layout on the side where we are pitched seems rather like a car park, whereas the Wells site was much more open and greener with a view over the surrounding countryside.  But on the plus side, the Cheddar site is closer to town.

The weather has definitely taken a turn for the worse.  We planned to have a cycle ride this morning (Wednesday), along the nearby former railway known locally as the Strawberry Line. but just as we were ready to leave, the heavens opened.  Not to be thwarted we waited until the rain had passed then cycled along the Strawberry Line (access is about half a mile from the site) as far as Axbridge, just a couple of miles away.  We had read about a good tea-room there, The Almshouse Tearoom, which was located on the High Street and hard to miss.  It turned out to be not only a tearoom, but a second hand bookshop too, although it was difficult to have a good browse in the rather cramped space.  There was seating downstairs, upstairs and in a courtyard.  Another heavy shower was just coming to an end as we left, to head back to the site.  More rain fell as we deliberated over lunch how to spend the afternoon.  We decided on a short walk to Cheddar Ales, where John and I had flights (3 x one third pints) of ales and ciders respectively.  We sat chatting outside to a couple who were also on the CMC site, comparing notes on trips to New Zealand.  Suddenly it was four fifteen and we had missed the opportunity to buy any ale or cider as the bar closed at four o’clock.  Very sad.  We’ll just have to pop back sometime in the next few days.

What a lovely surprise to wake up to a blue sky and sunshine this morning (Thursday).  As it was forecast to stay dry all morning, we decided to have a walk to view Cheddar Gorge from above.  It was a fairly steep hike, partly through woods, but the 180 degree views over the gorge itself, Glastonbury Tor, Brent Knoll, Cheddar Reservoir, Bridgewater Bay and Hinkley Point power station under construction, were magnificent. 

Panoramic view from the top of the Gorge

Looking along the Gorge

The gathering storm...

Trouble was, we could see dark clouds and heavy rain looming.  It might just miss us, but best head back.  Two thirds of the way down the weather arrived, not just rain, but hail stones too (it’s June for heaven’s sake!) and despite sheltering under trees, we got soaked.  Back in the van we dried off, changed clothes and warmed up with cup-a-soup and didn’t venture out again until the evening when we walked into town to the Indian restaurant, Spice Village.  And it stayed dry all the way there and back!

Friday 1 July: time to give the cycles another outing.  We drove through Wedmore, which looked a delightful village with lots of amenities, to the Avelon Marshes Visitor Centre, where there was plenty of parking and no height barrier, and picked up various leaflets about the nature reserves.  A two mile cycle ride passed along the Shapwick Heath Nature Reserve to RSPB Ham Wall, where the parking would have been even better for a motor home (but refreshments more limited – take your choice!)  After a picnic lunch we sought shelter from a heavy shower beneath the canopy of the RSPB hut and chatted to one of the volunteers.  I have always wanted to come to Ham Wall in the winter to see the starling murmurations and the volunteer reminded us how busy it gets then and that it’s necessary to bag a parking space at about 2 pm.  

Ham Wall

From Ham Wall we walked along part of the Ham Wall loop and to various bird hides.  Throughout the time we spent on the marshes we saw great white and little egrets, herons, cormorants and two juvenile marsh harriers (confession: we had those pointed out to us!) as well as coots, swans and numerous female ducks of indeterminate type.  Unfortunately we didn’t spot the bitterns which three people said they had seen.  A really enjoyable day rounded off with a barbecue, courtesy of John, back at the site.

Today, Saturday, was always forecast to be grim so it was a conscious decision to spend much of the day in the van.  But we did manage a quick walk to Sainsbury’s to stock up supplies before the rain set in.  Then we enjoyed reading the paper over hot chocolate / coffee and croissants and later on a full English brunch.  Sorry about all the washing up John!  The weather gave me a good reason to watch more Wimbledon matches in the afternoon.  By 4.30 the rain seemed to have stopped so we went out for a walk through Cheddar Gorge, identifying where we had stood on Thursday to take photographs looking down into the chasm.  This time the photos were looking up and I think you appreciate the size of the gorge more from down below.  

While we were out we bought some Cheddar cheese to sample when we get home, just as the shop was closing.  As delighted as we were to see a clear blue sky at about 8 pm, it was also very annoying.  A bit of sunshine earlier in the day would have been much appreciated.

We spent our final day on the bikes, cycling on the Strawberry Line again but further this time, although we did stop in Axbridge for coffee.  Not at The Almshouse Tearoom, which was closed, but at Ripleys Antiques, which also provided a tasty bacon toastie.  Apologies, I am beginning to sound like a guide book for tearooms!  The beginning of the cycle trail is narrow, windy and not well maintained in places but gradually improves, then uses the road on each side of Axbridge, after which if broadens and is a much more pleasant ride.  It proved to be very popular with both cyclists and walkers, many with dogs. You just need to take care in a couple of places where it crosses busy roads.  We passed by Winscombe before arriving at Sandford, where there is a Railway Heritage Museum comprising a restored station building with an array of railway artefacts and several pieces of rolling stock outside, including a locomotive which had worked at the nearby quarry. 

On the return leg we were enticed by a sign to leave the trail to cycle into Winscombe and find The Pantry for another coffee.  Further delights were on offer; different flavoured Victoria sponges and mini quiches, all home-made. It seems our current philosophy is to support local businesses, so we came away with a quiche to supplement our picnic.  Just before rejoining the trail, we came across a tiny garden, which had been designed and made by local boys as part of a Duke of Edinburgh project, funded by the Parish Council.   It was a good spot to demolish our lunch before getting on the bikes again.  There is a 200 yard (or so) tunnel between Winscombe and Axbridge and on the return leg we remembered to switch on our rear lights and use our phones’ flashlights as illumination at the front.  Axbridge was having Open Gardens this weekend but we resisted the temptation to stop; there was also a large gathering of people in the centre of the town and a band had just started to play, but we weren’t sure what that was all about.  Once back at the site it was lovely and sunny so out came the chairs for the first time at Cheddar, although I admit I had a catch up on Wimbledon first of all.  Home tomorrow, with a probable stop at Gloucester Services for a comfort break and change of driver.

Somerset (1)

June 22 - 27 2022

 Oh Well(s)

Life had been rather hectic prior to 22 June.  Mum had been to stay, involving two return trips to Kent, Louise and Connie had visited as bookends to their Cambridgeshire/Hertfordshire trip and Chris and Ben came across for one night too, so that Chris and Louise could have a bit of time together. So we really did feel in need of a break.

We broke the journey to Wells with a stop at Gloucester Services, which rather impressed us.  It’s under the same ownership as Tebay, but was considerably quieter and the hot lunch was good.  So no cooking was required on arrival at the site.  On arrival at Wells Touring Park we received a friendly welcome and were directed to an elevated pitch at the back of the site.  It was hot and sunny and we anticipated setting up camp quickly and then relaxing in the sunshine.  However, things went awry pretty quickly.  The pitch had a fair slope to it, so out came the ramps and John prepared to ascend; I was certain we needed the top step.  We didn’t fully appreciate the effect that the downward slope of the pitch and thick gravel would have; after reaching the top step, the weight of the van was too much for the edge of the ramps and they catapulted, creating a sort of spring between the rear of the front tyres and the underneath of the ‘van.  The ramps and van were locked solid.  We were very lucky that the site warden had a scissor jack and he valiantly jacked up first one side of the van, then the other, so that we could remove the ramps, which had remarkably suffered no permanent damage.  From that point on we settled for the middle step of the ramps and put up with the fact that we still weren’t level.

Once that little hiccup was behind us, Wells Touring Park proved to be the relaxing place we needed.  It’s an adults only site and is also designated a Tranquil Park and indeed it is.  There is a bus stop right outside the entrance for easy travelling in either direction.  Site facilities include a bar, The Lounge, and a grill barrow, from which the warden produces a limited menu on Friday and Saturday evenings and bacon baps on a Sunday morning.  We appreciated having the bar and patio as a meeting space to chat to other campers, but not the beat of Heart FM transmitted to the toilet block, morning, noon and night!  In view of the age profile of the campers, Classic FM would probably have been more appropriate!

We made several trips into Wells, which is only 30 minutes walk away or ten minutes on the bus.  It is the smallest city in England and has many individual shops, such as Absolute Cards, and cafes to tempt you.  On the first occasion we walked in, having looked at an old timetable on the internet and arriving at the bus stop at the wrong time. As a reward for this we had coffee at the Bishop’s Palace Cafe, and then walked around the perimeter of the Palace Gardens beside the moat, admiring Vicars’ Close, believed to be the only complete medieval street left in England. It was designed to provide communal accommodation for the Vicars’ Choral, who sang daily worship within the Cathedral and this tradition continues today.  The current occupants still include all twelve men of the Vicars’ Choral, recognised as a world-class choir, plus the organists and vergers.  We learnt on a subsequent visit to the Cathedral that “vicar” actually means “substitute”.

Vicar's Close

A ploughman’s lunch at Kitty Banks on Market Place revived us before getting our two for one tickets (courtesy of Gardeners World) to visit the interesting Bishops Palace Gardens.  These include the ruins of the Great Hall, formal gardens, and the wells, from which the town gets its name.  We had an interesting guided tour of the Palace and Chapel before returning to the camp site by bus, having picked up an accurate hard-copy timetable at the bus station.

Cathedral from the Palace gardens

Palace Interior

Walls and moat around the Palace

The site is very close to Wookey Hole Caves, which we had intended to visit, but on reflection we decided that it was more of a day out for families and instead opted for a relaxing morning on the site, with an afternoon trip back to Wells on the bus to visit the Cathedral.  Unfortunately, the bus was late which meant we had missed the last Cathedral tour of the day, but we picked out the main sights ourselves, including the coffee shop!  The nave, with its scissor arches and ornate ceiling, was most impressive.  

Wells Cathedral

Likewise, the stained-glass windows and the beautiful, octagonal Chapter House, where clergy used to meet to transact Cathedral business and which, in fact, was used again during the Covid 19 pandemic, because its size facilitated social distancing.  Our cathedral visit ended by attending Choral Evensong before hailing a taxi to take us back to base (well, it was raining, the last bus had gone and it would have been most unpleasant to walk!

The East Somerset Railway beckoned on Saturday.  We rode on the first train out at 11 am, covering the 5 mile return trip in about 35 minutes.  There is no spectacular scenery to delight you; you must just sit back and enjoy the smell of the smoke and the clickety-clack noise from the rails.  

Our train...

...and the old ticket office

There was plenty to see at the station, such as an original W H Smith kiosk, museum, old ticket office and waiting room and engine shed.  Many photos were taken before heading back to the site, via Morrisons, and then enjoying a pre-dinner drink outside The Lounge, dinner being provided from the Grill Barrow.

We had noticed Milton Lodge Gardens on the WellsSomerset website and set out to find them on Sunday afternoon.  They are reached via a narrow road and an even narrower track once on the property.  Anything wider than a van conversion would not have got between the concrete pillars.  Parking is on the grass on either side of the track.  We were delighted to find out that the gardens are part of the Gardeners World two for one offer, so our card was used for a second time.  There is usually tea and cake on offer, but sadly not on our visit, due to other family commitments.  The first delight was the spectacular view from the terrace over the Vale of Avalon and Wells Cathedral.  

Paths meander through the beautiful terraced flower beds, woodland garden and arboretum.  Certainly worth a visit.  

From the garden we drove into Wells to double check the quality of the coffee and cake at the Bishops Palace cafe!  After that it was our intention to do a short walk but we were distracted by the Midsomer Norton and Radstock Silver Band who were playing in the gardens so we decided to listen to their wonderful concert instead.

We spent another enjoyable day in and around Wells on Monday, taking an interesting guided tour around the cathedral in the morning before a delicious lunch at ASK (sea bass and chocolate brownie for me, risotto and cheesecake for John).  Feeling in need of some exercise, we did the two mile walk put off from yesterday which led us away from Wells, up to Tor Hill quarry, down through Tor Woods and back to the Palace.  The herd of cows grazing on our route were a little worrying, but we sidled past them without mishap.

Staffordshire/Cheshire Border

 March 9 - 11 2022

 Living in the past

 Having introduced our grandson to the idea of camping last year, we thought it time to make some proper arrangements for accommodating grandchildren in the van. We had been aware of the Cabbunk system for a number of years, and decided to get one fitted by the business itself, rather than do it at home. As we were taking the van up to the Stoke on Trent area for the fitting, it seemed like a good idea to add a couple of days on and make a trip of it.

We arrived at the home of Richard, the designer/vendor of the system late morning, and he quickly had the uprights measured and in position. He is a very knowledgeable and friendly chap, and a motorhomer himself, so we spent an enjoyable hour over a cup of coffee, nattering about trips and places to stay. The system looks simple to put up and take down, and stows neatly in a bag.

We had booked a site at Mow Cop, Castle Camping, intending to check in and then go for an explore. However, a series of road closures meant we ended up driving past the car park for Mow Cop Castle, so decided to stop for lunch and see the castle. The building is actually a folly, dating back to 1754, and now managed by the National Trust. Although fairly bright, it was incredibly windy when we reached the top of the hill; we had to shelter behind a wall to be able to take photos.

Not just the castle, but the campsite a short distance away, are high on a ridge at the western end of the Staffordshire moorlands, meaning an exposed and windy location. Castle Camping is a C&CC certified site, with a small number of grass pitches, but an excellent facilities block. 

The next morning we headed to the National Trust gardens at Biddulph Grange, where the sheltered location gave a respite from the wind. Created by James Bateman in the middle of the 19^th century, it was a home for the many plant species he brought from around the world. Sadly, we weren’t visiting at the best time to see the floral displays, but the different garden areas still provided plenty of interest, including a Chinese Garden and a Himalayan Glen. A novel facet was the NT volunteers stationed at various points around the gardens; we are used to that inside a stately home, but not outside.

Chinese Garden

Himalayan Glen

The wind was still strong that evening (enough to blow the large rear doors of the van closed) and the forecast for the next day was rain in the afternoon and evening. Therefore, we decided to shorten the trip by a night, but still use the morning for a further visit in the area. Just 4 miles away is another National Trust property, Little Moreton Hall. Near enough, if fact, that we were sitting in the car park the next morning waiting for the building to open.

Little Moreton Hall was built as a statement of wealth by the Moreton family in Tudor times. Never modernised, and slightly crooked due to the marshy ground on which it sits, the hall is slightly different to most NT properties. The ever-helpful and knowledgeable staff gave us a good insight into life 500 years ago. The clouds were gathering as we finished our tasty bowl of soup in the café, meaning a wet journey back to Warwickshire that afternoon.