Austria 7: Hohe Tauern National Park

25 - 28 June

Rocky mountain high

It was only 25 miles to our next planned stop at Heiligenblut but we set off reasonably early in order to have a relaxing afternoon there. The site was idyllic, rather like being in someone's very large garden. The mountain views were lovely, facilities excellent and a restaurant/bar if you wanted it.

Heiligenblut is at the start of the Grossglockner mountain pass through the Hohe Tauern, which is where we headed next morning.  There was no way I was going to drive up and down the steep road with 36 hairpin bends and John did a superb job. We climbed from 1300 metres at Heiligenblut to a maximum 2571 metres at Edelweiss Spitze, the road's highest viewpoint, stopping frequently to take photographs and/or let the van's brakes cool down.

The road you see goes right around the mountain

There was a very interesting exhibition about the history and construction of the road at Fuscher Lacke. The  Glockner route dates all the way back to the second millenium BC (supported by archeological finds). The current pass was built between 1930 and 1935 but allowing for winter breaks, work was only possible for 26 months of those five years.

The whole experience was amazing but the side road up to Franz-Josefs-Hoehe (2369m) to view Grossglockner itself and the Pasterze glacier was the definite high spot (excuse the pun!)  Another interesting exhibition on the glacier and wildlife was located here at the Wilhelm-Swarovski observatory.

On leaving the pass we found our campsite, a "holiday park" which was not our first choice, but the site where we would have liked to stay was fully booked. While there we cycled along the flat cycle path to Zell am See in one direction and towards Kabrun in the other.

Zell am See from the end of the lake

Swans and cygnets by the lake

Austria 6: East Tyrol

 

20 - 24 June

Into the valley

We were advised against using the steep Katschberg Pass so made our way to Lienz via the tunnel and tolled motorway driving over a fantastic viaduct. Then through a small part of the Carinthia area before entering East Tyrol.

With all the forests here it's hardly surprising that forestry is a big industry and you pass plenty of huge stacks of timber and processing plants.  And you are always surrounded by mountains as the roads creep along in the valleys.

Just before Lienz we passed the Roman city of Aguntum.  This was a thriving trade centre between AD100 and AD400. There is an interesting museum to look around before the guided tour (by app in English or map and leaflet in German). Much of what has been excavated has been covered over again to preserve it but whatever was found has been replicated. It was very interesting but because of the temperature of 34 degrees we didn't stay very long.

Market Place, Aguntum

Lienz is a small town with old and new areas, located between the two rivers Drau and Isel. Camping Falken, our next stop, is a 15 minute walk away and sits below the Lienzer Dolomites a little over 20 miles from the Italian border.  The facilities are good but I was amused to find that each toilet cubicle, male and female, is provisioned with no less than 20 loo rolls!

In view of our tired state and the high temperature, we had an extremely leisurely day pottering around the town, ricocheting from cafe to cafe, finishing with a walk by the River Isel.

Marktplatz, Lienz

As always, there are churches galore, but one in particular caught our eye, Antonius-Kirchl.  Inside it is no more than 10 metres by 8 metres and heavily decorated.  

It was amusing to see laundry strung out across a narrow street.

We also came across an art exhibition in another church, Spitals-Kirche, where many of the artists exhibiting had used famous paintings as inspiration for their alternative interpretation.

Back at the van it was 38 deg C, reduced to 34 when we opened doors and windows and no cooler in the shade outside.  A few rumbles of thunder in the early evening developed into nothing more than that.

It was a different story next morning. Although it was sunny and very warm when we woke, there was a sudden strong wind, followed by thunder. Undeterred we set off for the bus stop (at the railway station) and got a bit wet when it started raining. We had initially fancied taking the train across the Italian border but the cost put us off when we could travel on most buses for free, thanks to the latest visitor card.

The route through the valley was quite steep sided so the scenery was not particularly wonderful but it was interesting to see how much industry we passed. The town of Sillian just 2.5 miles from Italy has a population of only 2000 and relies on forestry and tourism so has plenty of facilities, including banks, restaurants and supermarket. 

We had a brief look around the town but as the weather was not improving, we decided to have lunch and return to base rather than doing a walk or visiting the castle.  This gave John the opportunity to look around the inside part of the railway museum at Lienz.

Our final day while at this site was largely spent cycling eastwards alongside the fast-flowing, milky grey-green River Drau and railway track. 

We rode along in the sunshine, accompanied by birdsong and butterflies dancing above the wild flowers. Bliss. Until we stopped for some water and spied a large flying beetle with extraordinarily long antennae heading towards us. (Later we looked it up and thought it was a Sawyer beetle).  We did pass a sad piece of world war two history though.....

"During the last days of May 1945 some 40,000 Cossacks and their families arrived in the valley of Lienz fleeing from the USSR through Italy, having crossed the high mountain pass of Ploecken in the Carnic Alps and Corinthia.  They felt safe in this area under the protection of the British.  However, in accordance with the Allies' Treaty of Yalta, they had to be extradited and sent back to the Soviet Union.  After their leaders and officers were summoned to a fake conference and never returned, some 22,000 people from the Lienz area and some 16,000 more detained in other camps alongside the River Drau were destined to be deported and imprisoned before being taken to labour camps in Siberia or shot.  Unwilling to accept the forced repatriation they refused to go.  During the terrible commotion that followed, many of them lost their lives as a result of being heavily beaten by British soldiers. Many, especially mothers with children, jumped into the River Drau in desperation, where they drowned.  "Kossack tragedy on the River Drau" is commemorated yearly here at this cemetery.  The majority of survivors have already passed away but the memory of this tragic event remains very vivid thanks to their grandchildren and friends."

We had no specific destination in mind but an information board implied there was a cafe/restaurant in Nikolsdorf just over 1 km from the cycle path. It was a good job we had taken rolls and water with us as there was nothing on offer there. In fact, we didn't see a soul. On the return leg we stopped at the Dolomiten Golf Club which welcomed cyclists and what a beautuful place it was.

We probably cycled nearly 20 miles in total, not bad for us oldies still using mechanical bikes!

Austria 5: Mauterndorf (part two)

18 - 20 June

I can see for miles

We had timed our visit to Mauterndorf to coincide with a day when the railway operated and also to watch the Samsonzug at nearby Mariapfarr. There are ten of these huge figures (6.5 metres, 80 kg) in the Lungau area of Austria; the parades in each town take place on different days throughout the summer. The Samson depicts the fight of the Jews against the Philistines and is built on a wooden or metal frame and carried by one strong man with four assistants at his side. He is accompanied by a male and female dwarf and a band. As the procession makes its way around the town, it stops from time to time and the Samson performs a waltz. Most important are the two ladies walking through the crowds dispensing schnapps from a barrel. It was a fantastic community event and a good photographic opportunity.

Hazel and John had driven us to Mariapfarr and we had been able to park at their friend's daughter's house (Christina). We were invited to join her and husband Franz, plus grandma, brother and partner on their shady patio for beer / schnapps / ice cream / coffee and there was plenty to talk about in both English and German - the parade, Mautendorf and surrounding area, Christina and Franz's wedding just one week before and Scotland, where they are spending their honeymoon in August. It was lovely to spend some time with an Austrian family.

The following day our tour leaders extraordinaires drove us to the start of one of their favourite walks at the Etrachsee.  Hunting is a popular pastime and the hides are up high so that the hunter is shooting in a downward trajectory to minimise the risk of a person being shot if the bullet goes right through the animal.

The more gentle start along a gravel track became a steep climb through lovely woodland to reach the Rudolf-Schober-Huette, which was very welcome for lunch after the 1 hour 45 minute walk.

Rudolf-Schober-Huette

There are many of these huts located on walking and hiking routes to offer walkers food, drink and accommodation. The descent was somewhat quicker and we celebrated with an ice cream beside the lake before driving back to Mauterndorf.

A quieter day followed to recover from these exertions. We took the Grosseckbahn (cable car) - free ride with our Lungaukarte! - and then walked the remaining distance to the Grosseck (2000 metres) where there was still a pocket of snow. 

We admired the wonderful views, took plenty of photos and had refreshment at one of the hiking huts, before returning to the van.  Later on we were collected by Hazel and John to go out to dinner together as this was our final evening in Mauterndorf.

Andlwirt restaurant

From now on, we are on our own again.

Austria 4: Mautendorf (part one)

 15 - 17 June 2023

Move on up

So into Austria proper with twisty roads, steep inclines, tunnels, waterfalls, and distant snow-capped mountains. We drove along the B99 through the Obertauern Pass, which was very scenic. The van brakes got a bit hot on the long downward section.

Having established ourselves on our designated pitch (levelled the van on ramps, connected electric, taken chairs outside etc) we walked around the site and yours truly decided there were nicer pitches available (the designated one was right opposite the site entrance). We were allowed to move, John rolled his eyes, and we got ourselves settled a second time. We are here six nights so I assured him it was worth it.  Camping Mauterndorf is situated some 1100 metres above sea level, so our first couple of nights here were a bit cooler.

Camping Mauterndorf

We were issued with another discount card (Lungaukarte) for things to do in this area which appeared to be very useful.  However, the weather upset plan A which was to ride on the cable car from right beside the campsite and have a walk at the top. Instead we donned coats and overtrousers to brave the rain and walked into the town beside the River Taurach (25 mins). By then it had brightened up so we took photographs and generally got our bearings. Mauterndorf is such a pretty town with its window boxes and painted decorations on the corners of buildings and around doors and windows. 

After a Schnitzel lunch in Gasthof Brunnerwirt we did a tour of the much restored castle, complete with audio guide and free with our Lungaukarte! Unfortunately the weather deteriorated once we left, so it was a wet walk back to the site.

Travellers beware: many places, even restaurants, do not accept credit cards here!

This trip will include lots of railway visits and the first was on the Taurachbahn between Mauterndorf and St Andra through beautiful scenery. Hazel and John have spent many holidays here, doing voluntary work on the railway, so they know lots of people and have tremendous knowledge of the area and the Taurachbahn itself. The ride was punctuated by stops at one station (Mariapfarr) and again where the track crossed a road.  Not only did the railway staff get off to operate the basic level crossing, but some passengers did too, to take photographs, climbing aboard again at the other side of the road.  It was great to see a number of children involved in the operation of the railway; if your Dad takes part, then so do you!

At St Andra, the terminus, it was a short walk to the Gasthof Andlwirt for a leisurely Kaffee and Kuchen before returning to the train.  

We joined Hazel, John and their Swiss friend, Marcus, for dinner at Gasthof Brunnerwirt (much busier than yesterday) and to round the evening off John and I stopped off at the castle, where there was a free choral concert performed by half a dozen Austrian choirs plus one from just over the border in Germany.

The singers far outnumbered those listening and it was standing room only, but their unaccompanied performances were first class.

We did so much in Mauterndorf, it's going to have a "part two"!!!

Austria 3: Hallstaettersee

 12 - 14 June

A Salty Dog

The next leg of our travels was just 25 miles to Lahn, at the edge of Hallstatt. On the way we stopped at Bad Ischl to visit the Kaiservilla, one of the residences of Kaiser Franz Josef and Princess Elizabeth (Sisi). It's a small place and we felt that the hour long tour (guided in German with summarised English text) was a little too long. Interesting though.

Kaiservilla through the trees

A walk through the parkland led to Sisi's cottage, her bolt hole. She did not enjoy her public duties and loved to horse ride and walk in the mountains.  The building is now used to house seasonal exhibitions, one dedicated to hunting at the moment.  

We arrived at the next campsite late afternoon, very aware of the reviews we had read, particularly warning of the potentially grumpy site owner. We trod carefully and obviously passed an unknown test as John was awarded a can of chilled Guinness. The site, nestling beneath the mountains, comprises several areas, motorhome, caravans, tents, plus a daytime parking area / Stellplatz for motorhomes.  We have never had such international neighbours - at different times our corner of the site had vans from Norway, Finland, Switzerland, Italy, Czechia, Austria, Holland, Germany and the UK.  We had a short walk into the town that  evening to appreciate the quieter time of day; we knew that Hallstatt is a very popular tourist town.

Hallstatt probably has two churches, with bells ringing at 6 am, 7 am, 6 pm and 7 pm. Thank goodness for earplugs!

The Hallstaettersee is quite different from the Wolfgangsee. Whereas the Wolfgangsee has a flat area between the mountains and lake for towns, campsites, cycling/walking paths, the mountains around the Hallstaettersee are generally much closer to the water. So the town of Hallstatt seems to hang from the cliffs.

Hallstatt

Our designated pitch was in the shade and a bit chilly so the following morning I dared to ask if we could move to the sunny side. Mr Grumpy was not well pleased but said we could.  

On the sunny side

It was just a short walk via the lakeside to get to the entrance of the funicular railway which gives access to the Salzwelten (salt mine). The ride on the funicular, which can be seen from the campsite, was pretty fast, giving barely time to take a photo. We had a good guide in the salt mine whose patter was broken up with bits of video and a light show over the salt lake. We learnt how the salt deposit formed in the first place and the history of the mining here from several thousand years ago to the present day. We had to wear special uniform over our clothes and slid down wooden slides to reach different levels, finally coming back outside via a train like the miners used. Really interesting, if a little claustrophobic.

Fancy uniform

Slides down to lower level

Light show over salt lake

At the top of the mountain there is also the sky walk, from which you get a wonderful view over Hallstatt and the lake.

Hallstaettersee

The ride back down on the funicular

Next day we ditched plans to go to the Dachstein ice caves.  Instead we did a bit of photography in Hallstatt in better light but with hordes of tourists, especially Chinese posing for their selfies, before getting a bus to the nearby village/small town of Obertraun. There was not much to do there but we poked our noses into the two churches and enjoyed ice cream by the lake. We also found a very nice Stellplatz,  although at Euro 22 plus tourist tax and no facilities, we felt it was overpriced.

On to Mauterndorf in the Lungau region next.

Austria 2: Wolfgangsee

 8 - 11 June 2023

Ain't no mountain high enough

Upon arrival here there was just time to walk down to the lake (3 mins) 

St Wolfgang from campsite near Abersee

and admire our surroundings before making plans for Thursday. A cycle ride to St Gilgen (6 km) where there is a supermarket and tourist office seemed a good idea. However, overnight (why do you always think of things overnight?) I realised that as Thursday was a bank holiday for Corpus Christi, the supermarket was likely to be closed, confirmed by Google. Instead we cycled in the opposite direction to Strobl (5 km) along an old railway line (Salzkammergutlokalbahn). E bikes are incredibly popular here; a camping neighbour said that anyone over 60 who cycles has an ebike! 

 We had not travelled far when we came across an enterprising lady who had a Kaffee und Kuchen van outside her house. Too good an opportunity to miss, so we enjoyed our refreshment overlooking the countryside and listening to a cuckoo singing its heart out.

We wrenched ourselves away to finish the ride to Strobl, a small, pretty little town, where lots of people were in traditional costume, as part of the bank holiday celebrations. After visiting the tourist office and looking around the town we homed in on a pub/restaurant which looked very popular with the locals for menu of the day. 

Strobl

We had received our free Wolfgangseekarte from site reception which gives a tiny reduction at a number of attractions.  There are also other opportunities for discounted tickets and it gets very confusing.

We got up especially early on Friday in order to be in time for the first ferry across the lake to then ride on the Schafbergbahn cog railway. The low cloud over the Schafberg was a bit worrying but we set off regardless and even managed to join the first train of the day. The Schafberg is 1783 metres high and the average gradient of the railway is 26%. Three of its eight locos are steam, originals from the late 1890's.  Each train carries 90 passengers. Once we reached the top the low cloud had burned off and the views were spectacular. We were pleased we had caught the first train as it gave us chance to appreciate the surroundings without crowds of other folk. Many photographs of the five lakes (Wolfgangsee, Mondsee, Fuschlsee, Attersee and Irrsee) were taken. 

Mondsee

At the summit

We had looked at the train timetable the day before and it seemed a little sparse but they must expand this basic framework according to demand. Trains were running up and down like yoyos and even the train with Christmas livery was operating. 

The summit station

Once back on the lakeside we ambled around the town for a short while, stumbling on a wonderful ice cream shop. 

Salzburg - Ice cream shop through arch on the right!

We weren't able to look inside the church as there was a funeral service taking place and I felt sorry for those mourners who were standing just outside the door suffering distraction from the passing tourists.

 As we approached the ferry it was about to leave, perfect timing, rather busy with 13 cyclists in matching attire and all their bikes. But we were back to base quickly with gins and tonic while dinner cooked in the Remoska.

Next day we did a bike ride to the western end of the lake to St Gilgen, one of the more popular towns on the Wolfgangsee.  More of the cycle path was alongside the road than we had realised (but we think we missed a turning) but it was fairly flat. In St Gilgen there was a village festival complete with a number of brass bands, bars, food stalls, with people in national dress. All very jolly.

Away from the melee we found a restaurant for lunch where I had delicious grilled perch WITH VEGETABLES.  Most dishes are served with just potatoes of some form or with salad if you are lucky!

On our final day here we took a twenty minute walk towards Strobl which brings you to the departure point at Gschwendt, one of stops for the Wolfgangsee boat ride. It was a lovely sunny day with some breeze.  There were two Australian couples sitting near us who were doing an interesting European tour. We got off at the stop before St Gilgen so that could walk to the stop there and just before the town we found a pretty little cove for a picnic lunch.

Along the way were interesting information boards one of which told us that the Brunnwinkl is perhaps the most idyllic bay at Lake Wolfgangsee.  The Brunnwind, a strong wind coming from the north to northwest just after noon in summer fair weather, provides the best sailing conditions. Hence the location of a sailing club here.

We have seen several nice looking campsites along the lake but upon research they only offer seasonal pitches. Once we got back to our site, we found a lot of vacant pitches as many campers had left at the end of the holiday weekend.