Netherlands 1

2-8 Sept

China in your hand

Our journey to the Harwich ferry terminal began with the A14 being closed and having to use the alternative route via M11 and A120. It was a smooth overnight crossing and we were in the supermarket, Albert Heijn, before nine. A short drive took us to the visitor centre at the storm surge barrier on the Nieuwe Waterweg. Unfortunately they had a power cut when we arrived but we hung around until it was resolved and were so glad we did. We had an hour-long guided tour in English (just the two of us) with a twenty-something year old student, Joris, who explained the geography of the area leading to the threat of flooding and the building and operation of the barrier, comprising two arms, each 240 metres long. 

From there we went on to Delft for two nights, where we travelled into town using the excellent bus service. We visited the Royal Delft museum, exhibition and factory. The history was revealed by film, audio guide and panels on the wall and we discovered that Royal Delft has also produced architectural features and tiles at certain times in its history. 

After a very nice lunch in their cafe overlooking the courtyard we wandered along the Koornmarkt by one of the canals, admiring the only remaining windmill and the gate at the Oostpoort. It was a spur of the moment decision to have a boat trip on the canal, our driver and guide being another student. As well as the serious information he imparted, there were some fun facts too. Delft has a large university and each year 800 bikes are fished out of the canals. Also the old lunatic asylum is now student accommodation, so no real change there! He did a fantastic job of manoeuvring the long boat around 90 degree turns. 

Oostpoort

Our day ended with cocktails and dinner at Moeke's on Beestenmarkt to celebrate our wedding anniversary.

On the way to Alkmaar, our next destination, we visited the Cruquius Pumping Station. The Haarlemmermeer was a huge lake important for transport, and a source of fish and peat. However, during storms the lake presented a risk of flooding Amsterdam, Haarlem and Leiden.  In 1651 a heavy storm combined with spring tides caused extensive flooding in Amsterdam after which there were several plans to drain the Haalemmermeer. None were initiated until 1836 when King Wilhelm I made the decision to build three steam pumping stations, one of them the Cruquius, and the lake was completely drained in four years and one month.

Once settled at Camping Alkmaar we did a trial run into town on our bikes, which only took ten minutes along cycle ways which seem to have priority over everything. Once in town we located the underground garage for bike storage with attendant, which we felt was pretty secure.

Next day we repeated the journey in order to visit one of the last remaining cheese markets in the Netherlands. When we arrived hundreds of Gouda-type cheeses were already stacked in the square and bells were ringing from the building where the cheeses were weighed (originally a chapel and hospital for the poor and pilgrims). Cheeses are not actually traded here now but the procedure of carrying the cheeses on special carriers to be weighed (8 cheeses @ 12-13 kg plus the carrier - 25 kg - is a hefty load) and then loading them onto carts for despatch was played out.

To complete the cheese experience we visited the cheese museum and later called in at the little courtyard of Wildemanshofje, which reminded us of the patio gardens we had seen in Spain.

Another cycle ride took us to Berg aan Zee for a fish and chip lunch, Dutch style, with the return route crossing the sand dunes. Most enjoyable.

The beach at Bergen aan Zee

Next day we took the ferry to the island of Texel (pronounced Tessel in Dutch).