Outer Hebrides 4 - Harris and Lewis

 23 - 26 May

Life in a Northern Town

It was 77 miles to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, quite a long journey as far as this trip is concerned, calling at Talla Na Mara where there are two small campsites (and a third nearby) all run by the West Harris Trust. They had all been full when we tried to book. However, we did support the restaurant for lunch. Along the first part of the route were views of more lovely beaches, and as the road veered eastwards there were numerous lochs among the rocky landscape which would have been enhanced by a bit of sunshine.

Nisabost Beach

Compared to all the peaceful places we have visited, Stornoway seemed quite busy in terms of traffic and habitation. After a one-night stop to give us chance to patronise a large supermarket - shops are going to be limited for a while - we parked at Woodlands Cafe and had a pleasant walk around the grounds of Lews Castle. The information boards explained some history of the island. It was bought by Sir James Matheson in 1844, funded from lucrative opium trade.  His wife, Lady Mary Jane, launched a school for poor girls to teach practical skills which flourished for over 50 years. In 1918 the Matheson family sold Lewis to Lord Leverhulme for £147,000, whose philanthropic plans for Stornoway were modelled on Port Sunlight in Merseyside. However, the plan was abandoned inv1923 when he gifted Lews Castle and estates to the people if Lewis.

After the history lesson we drove on to Fivepenny, part of the Ness area, at the northern end of Lewis, crossing a landscape which reminded me of Dartmoor. On arrival we were welcomed to Uncle's Croft by the owner, a small site with about 12 motorhome pitches and no facilities apart from water and electric, although you can use toilets and showers at the nearby sports centre.

From the site we walked to the coast, about a quarter of a mile away and along the way were amused to see various quirky installations which had been rescued from the tip by the site owner - a stuffed horse and tiger, old ATM, ladies’ legs and arms protruding from the ground, rusting bikes to name a few.

Our bikes enabled us to cycle to the Port of Ness which was the first man-made harbour created in rural Lewis, completed in 1837, then to the lighthouse at Butt of Ness, where we identified fulmars amongst the seabirds and also saw a seal on a rock. We came across the Wobbly Dog cafe when most needed!

Port of Ness

We enjoyed a very nice meal at The Cross Inn about a ten-minute drive from the site and used the local taxi service run by Donald (aka Dolly) next door. He was beyond retirement age but as he is the only taxi service, he felt that locals, especially the older residents, would find it difficult to get to the shops or medical appointments without him.

On leaving Uncle's Croft we stopped off at Eoropie beach for a walk. There is a memorial on the cliffs to the tragedy of the Cunndal drowning when the crews of two fishing boats were lost close to shore and in broad daylight. No assistance could be given due to the terrible surf and strong undercurrent and friends and neighbours watched helplessly from the clifftop.