Outer Hebrides 2 - North & South Uist

 15 – 17 May 2024

Whisky in the jar

After a smooth crossing we arrived at Lochmaddy on North Uist and headed to our overnight stop at Moorcroft campsite. On arrival there was a pitch with our name on it, so we set up and the owner popped over a bit later to welcome us. All very low key and friendly. Although it was raining overnight, in the morning we set off in sunny weather to drive south across North Uist, Benbecula, and onto South Uist (the islands being linked by causeways). The roads are mostly single track with passing places but with few trees and no hedges, visibility is good. We stopped for a while near Loch Druidibeag, where there is an RSPB nature reserve. Whilst walking from the parking area, we saw a white-tailed eagle on its nest, thanks to some keen birdwatchers who let us look through their telescope. 

There's a white-tailed eagle on that island...

A visit to the Kildonan Museum gave a good insight into the history of Uist, but was probably just an excuse for coffee and cake in the cafe! Our next stop was on the southern edge of South Uist, at Kilbride campsite. There is a very good café at the entrance, and we can recommend the fried breakfast! The site very peaceful and one evening we heard corncrakes while sitting outside and there was a spectacular sunset.

 

On our first day we used our new e-bikes to cycle over the long causeway to Eriskay. Just to the east of the road is the spot where, in 1941, the SS Politician ran aground. Amongst its cargo were 22,000 cases of Scotch whisky; this incident was the inspiration for Compton Mackenzie’s book “Whisky Galore”. 

We cycled towards the south of the Island, stopping at Prince Charlie’s beach, beside which is the ferry slipway for the crossing to Barra. As the name would indicate, this beach is the spot where Prince Charles Stuart landed in 1745 at the start of his ill-fated attempt to regain the throne of Great Britain.  

The next day we unhitched the bikes again and headed in the opposite direction, past Pollachara beach with its standing stone. 

We headed up toward the coast near Boisdale but the strong wind meant the ride was not as pleasant as it might have been. En route we called at the modernist church of Our Lady of Sorrows. Hebrideans are devout people and the plentiful churches seem to be frequently used. The islands are also a stronghold of the Gaelic language, all signs being bilingual.

We are pleased with the e-bikes - the motors have been much appreciated to get up hills, speed up to a passing place if there is other traffic and to battle the wind!