Netherlands 4

 20 to 27 Sept

Parachutes

We had an unexpected addition to our plans at Otterlo; John discovered that on Saturday 21st there was a major air event to mark the 80th anniversary of the Battle of Arnhem just 5 miles away at Ede. We set off early and joined the hundreds of cyclists on the cycle paths to the event. 100,000 spectators were expected and as we got closer to the venue lots of people were stopping on grassy areas to view from a distance and we did the same. There was a display by a Spitfire and then various aircraft including Hercules and Airbus A400 looped around the skies to facilitate a mass parachute drop which was an amazing spectacle. We read afterwards that 700 parachutists from different NATO countries were dropped overall. With the sun shining through the 'chutes, they looked just like mushrooms or jellyfish. There was also a display by The Red Devils, the British Army display team.

 

Our main reason for staying at Otterlo was to visit the Kroller-Muller exhibition, established by the late wealthy Helene Kroller-Muller and subsequently gifted to the nation. The exhibition is housed in her vast residence and includes the largest collection of Van Gogh paintings in the world. Outside in the grounds are more than 100 sculptures, including some by Barbara Hepworth. Surrounding the estate is the Hoge Veluwe national park covering a total of 21 square miles which is criss-crossed with cycle paths, so we ended the day with yet more cycling.

We explored the cycle paths to the north and west of the site over the next couple of days, heading for "the middle of The Netherlands" on one occasion, marked in an understated way with a tree and circular wall! 

We noticed how some modern houses in this area have thatch rooves. We also passed a beautiful field of sunflowers and Fiddleneck, the latter being grown for its nutritional benefits to the soil. 

Before arrival at our last site in The Netherlands, Leiden, we made a quick stop at Noordwijk on the coast, where the sandy beaches go on for miles.

We spent the next two days in Leiden, travelling in by bus, and we had to dodge some heavy showers of rain while in the city.  Day one focussed on the Botanical Gardens, which were very interesting from a historical point of view, but do not comprise a beautiful site to walk around. 

Giant water lily

Sadly we somehow missed the Observatory which is accessed from the gardens. On day two we picked up the Pilgrims Route leaflet from the tourist office and followed this trail along and between various canals to see churches and other buildings, the corn market bridge and areas where Rembrandt spent his early life. 

The Koornbrug

Hooglandse kerk

In the course of all this we learnt how two groups of Separatists fled the UK to The Netherlands to escape persecution. After twelve years these people briefly returned to Plymouth from where they set sail to the east coast of America on The Mayflower. Many famous Americans such as Clint Eastwood, ten presidents including President Obama, and John D Rockefeller are descendants of The Pilgrims.

We made it back to the van just before a heavy thunderstorm arrived, and the following day we had a wet drive down to our last site near Calais, before getting our return shuttle. 

Overall we really enjoyed The Netherlands and we certainly achieved the cycling objective.  We hadn't realised how many interesting things we would see; in fact, even the guy at the small service station in Hooghalen who filled our diesel tank (long time since we have had that experience!) seemed to find it hard to believe we could spend four weeks exploring his country!

Netherlands 3

 15-19 Sept

Across the great divide

The next stage of the trip to Hindeloopen had a dramatic start as we drove over the 20 mile Afsluitdijk joining the provinces of North Holland to Friesland. Construction started in 1927 and the two ends met in 1932 and there is a monument at that point to mark the spot. Unfortunately the stopping place there was closed. 

About two thirds across there is a visitor centre which goes into great detail by audio guide about the construction of the dyke and its impact, some of which we had already learned at Enkhuizen. The dyke is now being reinforced, both in height and width and being clad with special blocks to withstand the funnelled waters from the North Sea. There was a viewpoint from the top of the visitor centre but we didn't think you got the true feeling of being in the middle of the surrounding waters because of the higher level of the dyke on the Waddensee side.

On the first evening in Hindeloopen we had a pleasant stroll into the town, which is located on the banks of the Ijsselmeer.

Hindeloopen

The next day we had a pleasant cycle ride by the water to the nearby town of Stavoren, a bustling harbour, where we watched some superb manoeuvring of a 50 foot plus wooden boat. There was also an unusual water fountain in the form of a giant fish.

From Hindeloopen we travelled to a site near Hooghalen, south of Assen. On the way we visited the Woudagemaal pumping station, the largest steam pumping station in the world, which is a world heritage site. It was originally powered by coal but now uses blue diesel. Nowadays it is only used when water levels are extremely high and other pumping stations (such as one at Stavoren which we missed) cannot cope. Its pumping capacity is 67 cubic metres per second, that's the content of an Olympic swimming pool every three seconds! 

Our guide, Richard, was excellent in terms of detail and his English, as he led us around the machinery inside the station and the surrounding area outside. It was all fascinating stuff; a few more facts are shown on one of the attached photos and the website is www.woudagemaal.nl.

The Hooghalen site was particularly spacious and peaceful and we had some friendly Dutch neighbours. In preparation for another day of historical education at Camp Westerbork we then gave our brains a day off with a pleasant cycle ride through the Drentsche Aa national park and found the excellent cafe / restaurant "Gerrie" at Grolloo.

As expected Camp Westerbork was a sombre experience. It was originally built to house Jewish refugees after Kristallnacht. However, once the Germans occupied the Netherlands it became an internment and transportation camp. The memorial depicts a railway line with 93 sleepers, one for every transportation between 1942 and 1944 and the damaged, curved tracks at the end represent the Jews with outstretched arms. 

Lest we forget

Further on 102,000 red blocks representing all those who were transported and died are set into grey and black blocks forming a huge map of the Netherlands. The different sized red blocks show the range of ages. There were also two indoor exhibitions, the first more factual, the second exploring how the camp has been remembered in the intervening years and how it should be remembered in the future.

Netherlands 2

 8 to 14 Sept

Turn back time

The ferry to Texel was extremely efficient; there was no check in, just vehicle number plate recognition. Once on board we barely had time to drink a cup of coffee in the seating area before we were driving off again. 

While on the island we did a short cycle ride around the de Waal nature reserve and a longer one from near Oudeschilde, where we were staying, on the dyke along the east coast as far as De Cocksdorp at the northern end. 

The cycle routes are easy to follow; junctions have a number (knooppunt) making it straightforward to go from one to another. Despite this we did manage to miss a turning, the plus side being we passed an enterprising dairy farm with a soft ice cream vending machine (there was another for milk - less interesting!)

On the final day it was forecast to be quite wet so we drove the van to the lighthouse at the northern end of the island, and had a brief walk on the fabulous beach before climbing the 118 steps to the top of the lighthouse. It was so windy on the outside that you could barely walk.

Heading back south we stopped off at the De Slufter nature reserve and walked towards the sea but the birds seemed to be hunkering down out of the wind and showers.

After disembarking from the return ferry we stopped at the navy museum just outside the ferry port. It comprised an indoor historical exhibition and several ships outside including a minesweeper, a ram and a submarine. It was fascinating to explore the ships, especially the submarine, which brought home what a tiny space 70 submariners had to live and work in.

An hour's journey in the wind and rain took us to Enkhuizen. Fortunately it had dried up by the evening and we were able to walk into town and find a restaurant for dinner. Lava turned out to be such a good choice that we went again a couple of nights later.

There were two reasons for visiting Enkhuizen. One was the Zeiderzee Museum, a collection of about 140 buildings rescued from various towns in the vicinity to show how life was before the Afsluitdijk was constructed across the Zeidersee, turning the sea water into the freshwater lakes of the Ijsselmeer and Markermeer, thereby destroying the fishing industry. The museum was brilliant; many of the buildings were furnished and equipped in such great detail and volunteers were playing the part of former inhabitants. 

The steam laundry

Inside the laundry

We saw a garden hospital, that is a summer house you could rent, vital for recovery from illnesses such as TB and pleurisy before antibiotics came on the scene. 

The garden hospital

We needed more time than we had and never made it to the additional indoor museum.

The second attraction at Enkhuizen was to complete the triangular route to Medemblik (by boat), to Hoorn (by steam tram) and back to Enkhuizen (by the regular train service).

Our final day was a little more leisurely with a walk into town, where there is an amazing and very tempting cheese shop, plus a cycle ride to the De Ven lighthouse and along the Vest dyke which encircles much of the town. 

View from the Vest dyke

Netherlands 1

2-8 Sept

China in your hand

Our journey to the Harwich ferry terminal began with the A14 being closed and having to use the alternative route via M11 and A120. It was a smooth overnight crossing and we were in the supermarket, Albert Heijn, before nine. A short drive took us to the visitor centre at the storm surge barrier on the Nieuwe Waterweg. Unfortunately they had a power cut when we arrived but we hung around until it was resolved and were so glad we did. We had an hour-long guided tour in English (just the two of us) with a twenty-something year old student, Joris, who explained the geography of the area leading to the threat of flooding and the building and operation of the barrier, comprising two arms, each 240 metres long. 

From there we went on to Delft for two nights, where we travelled into town using the excellent bus service. We visited the Royal Delft museum, exhibition and factory. The history was revealed by film, audio guide and panels on the wall and we discovered that Royal Delft has also produced architectural features and tiles at certain times in its history. 

After a very nice lunch in their cafe overlooking the courtyard we wandered along the Koornmarkt by one of the canals, admiring the only remaining windmill and the gate at the Oostpoort. It was a spur of the moment decision to have a boat trip on the canal, our driver and guide being another student. As well as the serious information he imparted, there were some fun facts too. Delft has a large university and each year 800 bikes are fished out of the canals. Also the old lunatic asylum is now student accommodation, so no real change there! He did a fantastic job of manoeuvring the long boat around 90 degree turns. 

Oostpoort

Our day ended with cocktails and dinner at Moeke's on Beestenmarkt to celebrate our wedding anniversary.

On the way to Alkmaar, our next destination, we visited the Cruquius Pumping Station. The Haarlemmermeer was a huge lake important for transport, and a source of fish and peat. However, during storms the lake presented a risk of flooding Amsterdam, Haarlem and Leiden.  In 1651 a heavy storm combined with spring tides caused extensive flooding in Amsterdam after which there were several plans to drain the Haalemmermeer. None were initiated until 1836 when King Wilhelm I made the decision to build three steam pumping stations, one of them the Cruquius, and the lake was completely drained in four years and one month.

Once settled at Camping Alkmaar we did a trial run into town on our bikes, which only took ten minutes along cycle ways which seem to have priority over everything. Once in town we located the underground garage for bike storage with attendant, which we felt was pretty secure.

Next day we repeated the journey in order to visit one of the last remaining cheese markets in the Netherlands. When we arrived hundreds of Gouda-type cheeses were already stacked in the square and bells were ringing from the building where the cheeses were weighed (originally a chapel and hospital for the poor and pilgrims). Cheeses are not actually traded here now but the procedure of carrying the cheeses on special carriers to be weighed (8 cheeses @ 12-13 kg plus the carrier - 25 kg - is a hefty load) and then loading them onto carts for despatch was played out.

To complete the cheese experience we visited the cheese museum and later called in at the little courtyard of Wildemanshofje, which reminded us of the patio gardens we had seen in Spain.

Another cycle ride took us to Berg aan Zee for a fish and chip lunch, Dutch style, with the return route crossing the sand dunes. Most enjoyable.

The beach at Bergen aan Zee

Next day we took the ferry to the island of Texel (pronounced Tessel in Dutch).