Outer Hebrides 6 - Harris

 31 May – 5 June

Any road will take you there 

Due to the pain in my foot and some rapid swelling I had decided to call the surgery at Tarbert, which we would pass, to see if there was a nurse or doctor I could consult. There was not, but the receptionist suggested calling the Leverburgh practice, as they had a surgery next morning, Saturday. There was an answerphone message giving a number to call if a doctor was needed urgently. Before we had had time to consider if this was necessary, the doctor had called me back, even though I had not left a message. He offered an appointment next day so we drove the 18 slow miles south. He was concerned I might have fractured the metatarsal bone so suggested we went to Stornoway Hospital (56 miles north) for an x-ray, which gave no definitive diagnosis but I was issued with a boot and crutches as a precautionary measure, pending a telephone call from the orthopaedic consultant early next week. At last, we could head off to Horgabost campsite (46 miles south) and on the way the GP called to see how I got on! He also said he would WhatsApp the x-ray to me. So not an ideal way to spend the day, (120 miles round trip) but thank you NHS Scotland for your excellent service.

Sunday was misty (or was it low cloud?) with rain and wind later. We drove to Temple Cafe, the only place we have found open on a Sunday but didn't undertake the walk from there we had planned due to my limited mobility and the weather. Then on to St Clement's Church in Rodel aka Eaglais Roghadail or Rodal Church. It dates from the late 15th or early 16th century, was built for the Chiefs of the MacLeods of Harris and is dedicated to Pope Clement I.

We parked overlooking a beach for lunch and watched black headed gulls battling against the wind and oystercatchers wading in the receding tide, before heading back to the site for a relaxing remainder of the afternoon.

The weather is so changeable here; as they say, you can have four seasons in one day. So not surprising then that we woke up to a brilliant blue sky next morning and we made the most of it by driving to beautiful Luskentyre Beach. 

The sky soon clouded over though so after lunch at Talla Na Mara there was more driving towards Huisinis.  Along this road there is a 2 mile walk to an eagle observatory, but that was no longer possible for me and parking was also difficult. We did stop to look at the remains of the old whaling station. 

Later in the day I was relieved to hear from the hospital that I hadn't sustained a fracture. Phew!

The last few days of our visit to the Outer Hebrides had definitely gone a bit to pot and the weather was not playing ball either. We woke to wind and rain, progressing to hail, on Tuesday and drove to the Seillam! exhibition about Harris and the island of St Kilda which was very interesting. Then on to the Harris Brewery near Leverburgh Ferry Terminal which made a pleasant coffee and lunch stop. Sadly, they had sold out of their own brand of beer. After that we drove along the Golden Road, so called because of the exorbitant cost of construction through the very rocky terrain and you really had to ask why on earth anyone would want to live in such a remote area. 

View along the Golden Road

Fortunately, there were more sunny intervals than showers which enhanced the journey and had given us the opportunity to rephotograph Rodal Church with a bit of blue sky.

On the final day on Harris we wanted to revisit the Waterside cafe for lunch and do a book swap for the second book in the Lewis series by Peter May. Alas, we had failed to notice it was closed on a Wednesday! Never mind, the Hebrides Hotel came to the rescue and we may have made purchases at the Loomshed Hebridean Brewery and Essence of Harris (candles, diffusers and the like)! After using the aire we found the other day to dump waste, we spent the rest of a sunny afternoon overlooking Luskentyre Beach, watching the tide come in. Very restful.

The next morning, we caught the ferry back to Skye, then on to the Morvich Caravan and Motorhome Club Site before driving down to Edinburgh to see Louise and family for a couple of days.

Outer Hebrides 5 - Lewis and Harris

 26 – 31 May

Turn to stone

From the next site (Eilean Fraoich) we set off in the rain to the Gerranan Blackhouse village, not as grand as it sounds as several of the houses are now holiday lets. However, the elderly gentleman demonstrating weaving on a 70-year-old loom was really interesting - he produced three inches of tweed in a matter of minutes - and in contrast the film showed how complicated and lengthy the set-up is. 

A short distance further on was Dun Carloway Broch, the remains of a dwelling / stronghold probably dating from the first century AD.

Despite the lack of shops there are frequent opportunities to buy crafts, eggs and treats from roadside cupboards, usually with an honesty box for payment. We stopped at a more elaborate set up, Dancing Flower Crafts, where the lady made items to sell from Harris Tweed, along with photographs, pretty glassware and other knick-nacks. We came away with a small Tweed pouch which we thought would be useful to hang in the van. Finally, we called in at the Arnol Blackhouse which depicted an earlier period than Gerranan, with its peat fire burning in the middle of one room. 

The benefits of the fire were that it killed bugs, cured meat and fish and did something to the thatch which made it good fertiliser when the roof was replaced. We also learned that when a new type of house with lime-mortared walls was introduced from the mainland 150 years ago, it was called a whitehouse and the term blackhouse was applied to older houses on Lewis.

On our way to the next site (Ardroil Beach aka Uig Sands, located immediately behind the dunes) we visited the Callenish Standing Stones and did a detour across a photogenic double bridge onto Great Bernera. The ever-narrowing road finally took us to Bosta Beach and an Iron Age house.

Callanish Stones

Bosta Beach

From the site we had a lovely walk across the enormous beach with its pink-hued boulders and saw the carving of a chessman representing the Uig Chessmen carved from walrus ivory from the 12th century, which were found nearby and believed to have come from Norway. 

We were sorry not to get to the Mangersta Stacks, but parking didn't look possible for the van and the road wasn't suitable for cycling.

It was then time to head back south to Harris via Stornoway, allowing us to revisit the Woodland Cafe. We detoured off the main road to the Ravenspoint Visitor Centre, which had an interesting museum about this area of East Lewes. The Chariots, mini submarines, were tested here during WW2 but because this stretch of water is partially fed by freshwater, the buoyancy was adversely affected and so the project had to be moved elsewhere.

The site at Lickisto is located 2.5 winding miles from the main road through rocky hills which have been described as resembling a lunar landscape! The photo speaks for itself.

While there we visited Tarbert, where there is a Harris Tweed shop and the Harris distillery, source of Harris Gin (infused with sugar kelp) and Hearach malt whisky. John had already tried and approved the peaty malt and Louise said the gin is superb so both were begging to be purchased. To dodge a rain shower we popped into the fortnightly (Friday) craft market and were amazed at the range and quality of the goods there. More money was spent after which we decided we had given the Tarbert community enough financial support and moved on.

We discovered that a French style camping aire has recently been established about a mile from Tarbert and we were sorry this had escaped our attention.

Continuing along the same road we had hoped to have a walk at Eilean Glas on the island of Scalpay but having negotiated the narrow, single track winding road with blind summits, we found that there was insufficient parking for the likes of us and had to head back again.

Plan B was to stop for a walk at Lacasdail Lochs which we had passed on the outward leg. However, fate intervened. Before we arrived there I got out of the van to take a photo and stumbled in a hole in the ground, causing a painful ankle. So that put paid to walking for the day.

Outer Hebrides 4 - Harris and Lewis

 23 - 26 May

Life in a Northern Town

It was 77 miles to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, quite a long journey as far as this trip is concerned, calling at Talla Na Mara where there are two small campsites (and a third nearby) all run by the West Harris Trust. They had all been full when we tried to book. However, we did support the restaurant for lunch. Along the first part of the route were views of more lovely beaches, and as the road veered eastwards there were numerous lochs among the rocky landscape which would have been enhanced by a bit of sunshine.

Nisabost Beach

Compared to all the peaceful places we have visited, Stornoway seemed quite busy in terms of traffic and habitation. After a one-night stop to give us chance to patronise a large supermarket - shops are going to be limited for a while - we parked at Woodlands Cafe and had a pleasant walk around the grounds of Lews Castle. The information boards explained some history of the island. It was bought by Sir James Matheson in 1844, funded from lucrative opium trade.  His wife, Lady Mary Jane, launched a school for poor girls to teach practical skills which flourished for over 50 years. In 1918 the Matheson family sold Lewis to Lord Leverhulme for £147,000, whose philanthropic plans for Stornoway were modelled on Port Sunlight in Merseyside. However, the plan was abandoned inv1923 when he gifted Lews Castle and estates to the people if Lewis.

After the history lesson we drove on to Fivepenny, part of the Ness area, at the northern end of Lewis, crossing a landscape which reminded me of Dartmoor. On arrival we were welcomed to Uncle's Croft by the owner, a small site with about 12 motorhome pitches and no facilities apart from water and electric, although you can use toilets and showers at the nearby sports centre.

From the site we walked to the coast, about a quarter of a mile away and along the way were amused to see various quirky installations which had been rescued from the tip by the site owner - a stuffed horse and tiger, old ATM, ladies’ legs and arms protruding from the ground, rusting bikes to name a few.

Our bikes enabled us to cycle to the Port of Ness which was the first man-made harbour created in rural Lewis, completed in 1837, then to the lighthouse at Butt of Ness, where we identified fulmars amongst the seabirds and also saw a seal on a rock. We came across the Wobbly Dog cafe when most needed!

Port of Ness

We enjoyed a very nice meal at The Cross Inn about a ten-minute drive from the site and used the local taxi service run by Donald (aka Dolly) next door. He was beyond retirement age but as he is the only taxi service, he felt that locals, especially the older residents, would find it difficult to get to the shops or medical appointments without him.

On leaving Uncle's Croft we stopped off at Eoropie beach for a walk. There is a memorial on the cliffs to the tragedy of the Cunndal drowning when the crews of two fishing boats were lost close to shore and in broad daylight. No assistance could be given due to the terrible surf and strong undercurrent and friends and neighbours watched helplessly from the clifftop. 

Outer Hebrides 3 - Barra and North Uist

 18 to 22 May

 On the beach

On our way to the ferry on Saturday we stopped at the Eriskay community shop for a few provisions. Arriving in Barra punctually we had time to take a small detour to witness the arrival of the tiny Logan Air plane onto the beach runway. This is a regular service from Glasgow and signs warn you to keep off the beach when the windsock is flying.

The runway at Barra

Touchdown

We were surprised how many people were there to watch (in cars and motorhomes). Afterwards we drove around the top half of the island to reach our campsite, Borve Camping and Caravanning. The view from the site was superb.

Next morning we attempted a short walk from the site. Access to the Hebridean Way was not far down the road but the path was not near the coastline and not clearly signed so after walking to a beach we turned back. The afternoon was more successful; we cycled to the most southerly inhabited island of Vatersay. John had warned me there was a steep hill, but I thought 12.5% was a bit much! Thank goodness for the motors! The road took us past the site of the Catalina aircrash in 1944, where plane parts still lie in the grass, and finished at the Vatersay Community Hall, which thankfully was serving refreshments for another 15 minutes. This is a lovely spot for a walk and also allows overnight camping.

On to Castlebay next day (Monday). The weather had been brilliant first thing - we even had breakfast outside - but during the morning the mist rolled in, giving the opportunity for some eerie photos of the castle perched on an island a short way out. 

Barra Heritage Centre has a tea room and an exhibition about Barra, which we might have explored with more time / bad weather.  It has been very hard to find places to eat out, but Castlebay Hotel hit the spot on this occasion. It was a shame the waitress knocked a jug of warm milk for John's coffee into his lap! From Castlebay we drove along the east side of the island and then to the top of the northern peninsula, for a night at the remote Croft No. 2 site, with its fantastic views. Usually there is a fish diner right next door but, guess what, it only opens during the latter half of the week!

View from our van at Croft No. 2

An early start was required on Tuesday to get the 8.30 ferry from Ardmhor, where we were greeted by name and Ardmhor Cafe provided excellent coffee and hot chocolate.

Arriving back on Eriskay it was a pleasant change to be somewhere familiar and we also made a second visit to the Kildonan Heritage Centre to buy books by Scottish author, Peter May. Blackhouse is the first of a trilogy of crime novels based in the Outer Hebrides and the book "Peter May's Hebrides" gives a lot of background to those novels.

The next site was next to the RSPB Balranald nature reserve and also located behind the beach.  It was a glorious afternoon and we enjoyed the 3 mile walk around the reserve where we spotted oystercatchers, lapwing, ringed plover, skylark and various gulls off our own bat and dunlin, turnstone and knot with the help of an expert. Despite being very tired we dragged ourselves back to the edge of the beach to photograph the sunset at 21.58.

We were so pleased to have experienced the nature reserve when we did as next day the weather was cooler, dull and windy. We did a short circular walk in the afternoon before the wind really got up and resulted in a very stormy night.

The next morning we drove over another causeway onto the Isle of Berneray, from where we caught another ferry for the crossing to Leverburgh, on the south of the Isle of Harris

Outer Hebrides 2 - North & South Uist

 15 – 17 May 2024

Whisky in the jar

After a smooth crossing we arrived at Lochmaddy on North Uist and headed to our overnight stop at Moorcroft campsite. On arrival there was a pitch with our name on it, so we set up and the owner popped over a bit later to welcome us. All very low key and friendly. Although it was raining overnight, in the morning we set off in sunny weather to drive south across North Uist, Benbecula, and onto South Uist (the islands being linked by causeways). The roads are mostly single track with passing places but with few trees and no hedges, visibility is good. We stopped for a while near Loch Druidibeag, where there is an RSPB nature reserve. Whilst walking from the parking area, we saw a white-tailed eagle on its nest, thanks to some keen birdwatchers who let us look through their telescope. 

There's a white-tailed eagle on that island...

A visit to the Kildonan Museum gave a good insight into the history of Uist, but was probably just an excuse for coffee and cake in the cafe! Our next stop was on the southern edge of South Uist, at Kilbride campsite. There is a very good café at the entrance, and we can recommend the fried breakfast! The site very peaceful and one evening we heard corncrakes while sitting outside and there was a spectacular sunset.

 

On our first day we used our new e-bikes to cycle over the long causeway to Eriskay. Just to the east of the road is the spot where, in 1941, the SS Politician ran aground. Amongst its cargo were 22,000 cases of Scotch whisky; this incident was the inspiration for Compton Mackenzie’s book “Whisky Galore”. 

We cycled towards the south of the Island, stopping at Prince Charlie’s beach, beside which is the ferry slipway for the crossing to Barra. As the name would indicate, this beach is the spot where Prince Charles Stuart landed in 1745 at the start of his ill-fated attempt to regain the throne of Great Britain.  

The next day we unhitched the bikes again and headed in the opposite direction, past Pollachara beach with its standing stone. 

We headed up toward the coast near Boisdale but the strong wind meant the ride was not as pleasant as it might have been. En route we called at the modernist church of Our Lady of Sorrows. Hebrideans are devout people and the plentiful churches seem to be frequently used. The islands are also a stronghold of the Gaelic language, all signs being bilingual.

We are pleased with the e-bikes - the motors have been much appreciated to get up hills, speed up to a passing place if there is other traffic and to battle the wind!

Outer Hebrides 1 - Skye

 9 - 14 May 2024

 Hebrides Overture

We’d tried, and failed, to get to Skye back in 2011, so another attempt was overdue. However, having seen a lot of photographs from the Outer Hebrides, gradually the plan evolved, and Skye became the start point for our adventure. Ferries and campsites were booked, and we were ready for the off.

Our first night was at CMC Strathclyde Country Park, conveniently located close to the M74, the drawback being the traffic noise. Otherwise the usual high quality site with the added bonus of warm sunshine.  There's a loch nearby which you can walk or cycle around if you want to stretch your legs.

 
The route to Skye could be navigated by lochs, rather than by road numbers: Lomond, Leven, Linnhe, Lochy, Garry, Loyne,Cluanoe, Duich, Alsh, then over the bridge and on to the Skye Camping and Caravanning Site at Edinbane. We had underestimated how long this journey of 237 miles would take and regretted not having time to linger on the way. We did manage to sneak into a car park alongside Loch Duich to photograph the iconic Eilean Donan castle

Although our pitch was not by the water, it was elevated and looked out over Loch Greshornish and we enjoyed a pretty sunset.

Due to a leisurely start next day there was a lot of competition for the available parking on the Trotternish peninsula and no chance of stopping at The Storr at the first attempt. We drove on to a new and fairly empty car park near Loch Mealt where there was a viewpoint and waterfall....

 ...and then headed back the way we had come and managed to find parking to enable us to climb up towards The Old Man of Storr. Even though we took the easier route it was still quite strenuous. The views were impressive, but would have been even better without the gloomy weather.

 

The forecast rain held off .... for the time being. However, back at the site we had a thunderstorm, which didn't last long, but heavy rain resumed just as John set off to do the washing up!

We opted to use the bus on Monday to go into Portree. The bus service was a bit limited but enabled us to do a short walk around the edge of the bay to Black Rock, where it's possible to see seals or sea eagles; sadly we saw neither. We then found a restaurant for a delicious fish and chip lunch before a look at the colourful buildings along the harbour.

 

The bus back was one of the many used by the school children, ferrying them back to distant places on Skye. The rather curmudgeonly driver was very strict with them.

On Tuesday we drove up to Uig (pronounced oo-ig) for the afternoon ferry to Lochmaddy on North Uist. It was a miserable, wet and foggy morning which put us off any exploring in that vicinity. The terminal is undergoing a £3.5 million redevelopment, due for completion in Spring 2025.

Even in early May Skye seemed very busy. We didn’t see the dramatic scenery at it’s best, due to the rain and haziness. However, the gorse and carpets of bluebells were very colourful.

Farewell to Skye