Tuesday 13 July 2021

Devon and Cornwall - 2

 Jun 25 - 30 2021

 Art for Art’s sake

 On our way to St Ives, our next stop, we broke the journey at the National Trust Lanhydrock House and Gardens. Built in the 17th century, but restored in the Victorian era, this mansion is noted for its gardens and woodlands. Our limited time precluded woodland walks, but we enjoyed exploring the house and gardens. Pressing on, we arrived at Ayr Holiday Park, on the outskirts of St Ives, early in the evening. 

Lanhydrock Gardens

House and chapel

Saturday morning was dull and grey as we walked down the steep road to Porthmeor beach, to the west of St Ives. We then picked up the South West Coast Path again, following it west, round the delightfully named Clodgy Point towards the Merry Harvesters, a stone circle of dubious authenticity. Porthkervis Bay made a suitable picnic stop before heading back along the path to the campsite.

Porthmeor beach and St Ives

The forecast for Sunday was for heavy rain all day, so we had booked tickets for the Tate St Ives. Donning our waterproofs, we trudged down into town, arriving at the gallery in a rather soggy condition. It made for an interesting morning; we liked a fair few of the exhibits, but some of the installations and artworks left us scratching our heads. A cup of coffee in the café fortified us for the walk back in the rain.

Thankfully the next day was dry, so we set off again on the coast path, this time heading east. The path rises steeply as it heads round Porthminster Point, before arriving in Carbis Bay (no doubt still recovering from the G7 summit a couple of weeks ago). The path was wet from Sundays’ rain as we continued; we were glad of our walking boots, unlike some folks who were wearing sandals or flip-flops. Emerging from the damp woodland, we walked amongst grasses and dunes by Porth Kidney Sands, before reaching Lelant. After a picnic on the rocks by the bay, we walked to the nearby station and caught a train back to St Ives.

St Ives

Porth Kidney Sands

 Time to move on again, towards Land’s End. We weren’t sorry to leave Ayr Holiday Park; although we had seen it recommended, we felt that the facilities did not live up to the price. It was by far the most expensive site we have stayed on in the UK or Europe (including Switzerland!).

Our route took us round Penzance, which gave us the opportunity to visit more National Trust gardens, this time at Trengwainton. These gardens contain a wide variety of exotic species that thrive in the mild climate of this part of the country. Although overcast, it made for a pleasant couple of hours wandering around the 25-acre estate.

 Our destination was the Camping and Caravanning Club site at Sennen, north of Land’s End, which we reached in the late afternoon. After settling in, we went for a walk over the fields to Gwynver Beach, about 40 minutes away. The Longships rocks and lighthouse, off Land’s End, were visible in the hazy evening light.

 A real bonus of the Sennen site is the proximity of the bus service, the Land’s End Coaster, which we used on every day of our stay.

 Botallack was our destination the following day and we arrived at the village in warm sunshine. A short walk from Botallack leads to the famous Crown Mines, with their old headframes and ruined engine houses perched on the cliffs. These relics of Cornwall’s once flourishing tin industry will be familiar to the legions of Poldark fans, as the area was a filming location for both productions. I was thinking of the lines from the Show of Hands song “Cousin Jack”, about displaced Cornish tin miners:

“Where the copper, the clay and the arsenic and tin

run in your blood and get under your skin”

 



After a couple of hours exploring and taking lots of photographs, we headed back to the village. A glass of local cider in the Queens Arms proved a good way to while away the time until the bus arrived. Back at the site, we planned the next day’s trip…

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