Tuesday 8 October 2019

Spanish Trip 3 - El Rocio to Puerto de Santa Maria


4 to 8 October 2019

Ride a white horse

From El Rocio it was a short journey of 120 miles to El Puerto de Santa Maria. Barbara and Clive stayed an extra night at El Rocio but we wanted to move on to give us an extra day in the sherry triangle, made up of Puerta de Santa Maria, Cadiz and Jerez. We had hoped to go across to Cadiz by catamaran but a replacement bus service was running - eventually - it was 45 minutes late. So the day did not get off to a good start. We had a pleasant stroll along the promenade which runs all the way round the edge of the peninsula, but due to a series of hiccups throughout the day, including a delay in finding somewhere for lunch, we didn't see much else.

Plaza San Juan, Cadiz

Causeway and Castillo de San Sebastian

We spent the following morning in El Puerto de Santa Maria but as it was a Sunday and now low season, several attractions (eg the castle and bullring) were not open. We found a small bodega (sherry producer) tucked away in the back streets, where locals were having a drink, having their own containers filled with sherry, or both.

Bodega owners putting world to rights

Barbara and Clive testing the product

We started to learn about the different types of sherry and selected three to try and felt it would have been rude not to purchase a bottle, for the princely sum of €4. We took a look inside the church, then made our way back to the site via the bullring, so we could at least see it from the outside.

Plaza de Toros, Puerto Santa Maria

It may have had something to do with the sherry, but we stayed on site relaxing in the sunshine for the rest of the afternoon.

Monday 7 October - we suddenly realised it's already two weeks since we left the UK. We opted to join a guided tour in English of a larger bodega (Gutierez) and spent a very interesting hour learning more about sherries, from the very dry Fino to the exceptionally sweet Pedro Ximenez, inevitably finishing with a tasting. Six generous measures awaited each of us, beautifully set out on tables, with some savoury nibbles to soak up the alcohol.

Explaining sherry production


Ready for tasting

We all agreed it had been a great experience. Once we had eaten lunch back on site and recovered from the excesses, we managed a short cycle ride along the coast in continuing, glorious sunshine.

Next day we took the train to Jerez, where we had tickets for the show at the Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art. After a short presentation we watched some of the horses being ridden in the training ground, noting that most of the trainers were young ladies.

Royal Andalucian School of Equestrian Art

Training Ground

The skills displayed by both riders and horses during the show itself were impressive, although we felt a little uncomfortable with some of the more "circus-like" tricks. In contrast to the training, the show was dominated by male riders, just one female representative. We had hoped to visit the Alcazar (fortress) in the afternoon, but our guide book and the internet gave erroneous opening times and it was closed long before we got there.
Time to move on .... to Ronda.


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