Wednesday 5 August 2015

Weybourne, Norfolk

25 to 28 July

Fields of Gold

On 25 July our friends, Gavin and Terry, celebrated their Golden Wedding Anniversary and we were not only invited to the party, but encouraged to stay the night in the motorcaravan, parked in their daughter's field!  Despite the fact that the weather had been unseasonal during the preceding days and that the marquee had disappeared up the road during the night in the high wind, it was a splendid occasion with around ninety guests, including family from all corners of the globe, sailing buddies and ex-Philips colleagues.  Even the weather relented, and the clouds gave way to a lovely sunny evening.

So having brought the 'van to the Fakenham area, it seemed only sensible to tack on a couple of days and I suggested it would be “fun” to walk part of the Norfolk Coastal Path.

On Sunday morning we moved the 'van to a pleasant campsite, Foxhills Camping, with a Caravan Club CL in a separate field, located on the edge of Weybourne, next to the Muckleburgh Collection, the UK's largest privately owned military museum.  We hastily packed a picnic lunch and set off on our first walk of about four miles, hoping that the rain, forecast to start at 1 pm, would not materialise.  From the site it takes about 20-25 minutes to get to the Norfolk Coast Path via Muckleburgh Hill, from which you get a good view of the coast, and we then headed west towards Cley.   

View from Muckleburgh Hill
This section of the path follows a shingle ridge, which is quite tiring to walk on, but there are lovely views of the coast and marshes.  As forecast, the heavens opened at around 1 pm and we were rather sodden by the time we reached the National Wildlife Trust information centre for some welcome refreshment.  Then it was back to Weybourne courtesy of the Coasthopper bus, which provides a regular service between Wells and Cromer seven days a week.

On Monday we decided to raise the bar, and set off in the opposite direction towards Sheringham and Cromer.  Turning left from the site, you come into Weybourne where there is a small shop, tea room, pub (The Ship Inn) and hotel (The Maltings Hotel), which also has a small site for five units on the other side of the road.  A left turn into Beach Road leads you to (you've guessed!) the beach,  where there is a car park (no height barrier, but overnight parking prohibited).    From here we headed east.

Weybourne Windmill
Cliffs near Weybourne
The coastline is dramatically different here, with the path meandering along the top of the crumbling cliffs.  The constant erosion means that the path has had to be re-routed, for example to the landward side of one house, which is now precariously perched on the cliff edge.

On the edge
Along the final stretch into Sheringham the North Norfolk Railway runs close to the path and you get good views of the steam engines working hard up the gradient out of Sheringham.

Before setting out we had purchased a copy of “Peddars Way and Norfolk Coast Path” by Alexander Stewart and although the path is well marked, it proved an invaluable source of local information.

After 3.5 miles we reached Sheringham, and came across a tea room “Copper Whelks” on the edge of town where we had a tasty lunch.  We had been caught in heavy rain a second time, but thankfully the tables and chairs were wooden, not upholstered, so we didn't feel too bad about going in.  Then off towards Cromer. Soon after Sheringham you pass Beeston Bump Y-station, which was the site of a top-secret military listening post during World War II.

Beeston Bump Y-station
After that I was disappointed to find that our Norfolk Coast Path book directed us away from the coast through countryside to get to Cromer and I felt a little cheated that this part of the coastal path wasn't coastal and, to add insult to injury, en route we had to climb up to the highest point in Norfolk, Beacon Hill, admittedly only 338 feet!  A bit more research shows that it is possible to carry on along the coast, except for a detour around East Runton.

Never mind.  We reached Cromer without mishap, a distance of about 8.5 miles, with time to spare for a coffee before catching the Coasthopper back to Weybourne.

On the way home on Tuesday we paid a quick visit to the remains of the motte and bailey castle at Castle Acre, which was interesting, and free!  But beware, the access road is very narrow and the car park small.  Anything longer than 6 metres would find probably find it difficult.  We didn't have time to venture to the Priory; always good to have something in reserve for next time!




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