Monday, 2 January 2017

The times they are a changin'

Post from John

The October Caravan and Motorhome show at the NEC (see previous blog entries) is a dangerous place. Whether it’s the heady aroma of wood, leather and GRP, or some kind of low level mass hysteria, visitors seem to open their wallets and spend freely. In previous years, we have come away laden with items for Theodora.
This year was different, however.
We bought a new motorhome….

We had been considering changing vans for some time. Whilst Theodora had been a good and faithful servant for four years, the opportunities for longer trips brought on by retirement meant that a couple of improvements were needed. One, a bigger washroom to allow us to use more limited facility sites (Caravan Club CLs or aires in France) and two, a simpler arrangement for making up the bed, ideally with the option of two singles. We both would have liked another van conversion like Theodora, but the basic laws of physics meant that we would have to look at a coachbuilt motorhome.
My objective for our visit to the show was to come away at the end of the day knowing which van we wanted (Ruth wasn’t optimistic about achieving even that). Now that we live only 40 minutes from the NEC, we were at the doors when they opened at 10.00am – and were still there when they closed at 6.00pm. We spent all day looking at vans, but kept coming back to the Auto Trail stand. Initially we had not considered this range, as it conjured up images of hulking twin rear axle beasties. However, the baby of the range seemed to suit our needs. Only about 1ft longer than Theodora, it would still fit on our drive for loading, and met the washroom/bed criteria.
We were introduced to the local dealer, Edwards Motorhomes of Worcester. Their sales guy, Andy, offered us an attractive deal on a 2016 model they had in stock. After much pondering and a couple of cups of coffee, the deal was done.
So on November 17th, we became the proud (but slightly apprehensive) owners of an Auto Trail Imala 615. We said a sad farewell to Theodora, and climbed into the new van. Gosh, it felt big! 1 foot longer, but 18” taller, it towered over Theodora.



Three days later we took the van, now christened Amelia, to Cheltenham on a “shakedown cruise”. We stayed at Briarfields Caravan Park, on the outskirts of the city. The site is well maintained, with excellent facilities, and a bus runs from outside the gates to the town. Unfortunately, it poured with rain virtually the entire 48 hrs we were there, confining us to the site.



This allowed us to spend time going through all the manuals and sorting out how to work everything.
Initial impressions? Well, we were pleased with the space inside, the bed(s) are much quicker to get ready, and the big washroom looked fine. Unfortunately we couldn’t test the water systems as we couldn’t remove the water filler cap! As we discovered later, there is a knack to it…
In terms of driving, the 2.3ltr engine in Amelia does not give the same oomph as the 3.0ltr unit in Theodora. Accordingly, our progress is rather more stately, as befits a lady of somewhat larger girth. Having said that, we have hardly pushed the engine, given it only had 100 miles on the clock when we collected her. Otherwise, the difference in size has not been too noticeable so far.

Over winter will see a return to Edwards to resolve the few teething problems that were “shaken down” on our Cheltenham trip, then 2017 awaits!

Thursday, 29 September 2016

Europe 2016 - Sites Info

Prices as at 2016

Camping Les Erables, Escalles, France
Lovely rural location 15 minutes drive from Channel Tunnel.  Sloping site but pitches fairly level, overlooking the English Channel.
Facilities: dated but clean
WiFi free across site
Price: Euro 15.90 inc electricity and showers

Stadscamping den Driesch, Valkenburg, Netherlands
Site sits high above the town- 5 minute walk to the centre. Access best from the east.  Site roads narrow and sloping. 
Facilities: excellent inc site shop
Price: Euro 29.00 inc electricity and tourist tax. Showers Euro 0.70

Alternative option is  Camperplaats Valkenburg (aire) which is adjacent.

Camping Vitznau, Vitznau, Switzerland
Beautiful location on Vierwaldstaettersee. Walking distance to Rigi Bahn.
Facilities: excellent; supermarket in town (10 mins walk)
WiFi free, but limited range
Price: SFr 43.70 inc electricity, tourist tax and rubbish tax.  Showers free.

Italy

Camping la Riva, Sorico (Lake Como)
Excellent site with pool and cafe. Footpath / cycle path to village where is mini supermarket, bank, restaurants
Facilities: excellent.
WiFi free, but limited range
Price: Euro 34.00 inc electricity.  Showers Euro 1.00

Camping Parisi, Baveno (Lake Maggiore),
Great location but very crowded.  Ten minute walk into Baveno.  Bus to Stresa.  Ferries operate from Baveno to other lake destinations including the islands
Facilities: excellent
WiFi free, but limited range
Price: Euro 18.00 including electricity and tourist tax (ACSI rate).  Showers free.

Camping Orta, Orta San Giulio. (Lake Orta)
Lovely lakeside location.  One part of site is  next to lake and the other across the road on terraces with tunnel between the two. Steep roads within upper part of the site.  Twenty minute walk (uphill) to Orta San Giulio
Facilities: excellent, including comprehensive site shop
WiFi: Euro 1.00 for 3  hours
Price: Euro 18.00 including electricity and tourist tax (ACSI rate).  Showers free.



France

Camping Tunnel, Etroubles
Located on road towards San Bernardo Pass.  Sloping site but level pitches; narrow site road.  Five minute walk to small town with bank and shop.  Good base for walking.
Facilities: very good.
Free WiFi but have to sign up to an account.  Not tried.
Price: Euro 17.36 including electricity and tourist tax (ACSI rate).  Showers free.

Les Domes de Miage, St Gervais-Les-Bain
Fantastic site with backdrop of mountains.  Site is open and lush; pitches are good size and level.
Facilities: excellent
WiFi free, but limited range
Price: Euro 20.00 including electricity (ACSI rate).  Showers free.

Camping Les Rives du Lac, Sevrier, Near Annecy
Lakeside site located 6 km south of Annecy.  On bus route to Annecy.  Ten minutes walk to either Lidl or Carrefour supermarkets.  Pitches level-ish but needed a bit of tidying.
Excellent facilities
WiFi free, limited range
Price: Euro 23.50 inc electricity and tourist tax.  Showers free

Camp Municipal Les Cent Vignes, Beaune
Site located within walking distance of Beaune.  Pitches vary in size surrounded by hedges with lots of trees; narrow site road.
Good facilities, although a bit jaded at end of season
WiFi free across site
Price: Euro 21.50  inc electricity and tourist tax.  Showers free

Camp Municipal de la Porte d'Arroux, Autun
Located approx 1 km from Autun.  Pitches of average size, surrounded by hedges with lots of trees.
Good facilities
WiFi chargeable (Euro 4 for an hour, Euro 6 for a day)
Price: Euro 17.70 inc electricity and tourist tax.  Showers free

Camping de Vezelay L'Hermitage, Vezelay
Located approx 0.5 km from the edge of Vezelay.  Sloping site but pitches reasonably level. Site divided into small groups of pitches with hedges and trees.  Narrow rough road within site.  Select own pitch and register with reception in evening.
Facilities limited in number
WiFi – none
Price: Euro 14.40 inc electricity and tourist tax.  Showers free

Camping Les Ceriselles, Vincelles
Located next to River Yonne and  Canal du Nivernais with cycle path.  Level, well maintained site with some trees; good road within site.  Pitches of average size, surrounded by hedges.  Reception open 8 am to 8 pm except lunch 12 noon to 2 pm.  Small covered pool.  Infrequent bus service to Auxerrre.
Facilities limited in number and could have been better maintained
WiFi – free across site
Price: Euro 16.30 inc electricity and tourist tax.  Showers free

Camperstop Auxerre, Auxerre
Located by river opposite cathedral.  Large, level parking area used by cars, coaches and motor caravans.  Free of charge.  No facilities.

Aire: Escale de Gurgy, Gurgy
Beautiful location for 33 motorhomes alongside River Yonne.  Close to village centre with bakery and restaurant.  Local wine available to taste and purchase each evening from hut.  Book swap.
Water available morning and evening only, drive-over waste drain, chemical disposal point.
WiFi -  none
Price: Euro 7.60 inc electricity and tourist tax.

Camping de Chalons-en-Champagne
Useful night halt
Facilities: adequate
WiFi – free near reception, otherwise Euro 4 per hour, Euro 6 per day
Price: Euro 16.00 inc electricity and tourist tax (ACSI rate).  Showers free.





Chalons-en-Champagne – Calais

26 – 27 September

Run for Home

After Gurgy there were just two nights left, the first at Camping de Chalons-en-Champagne, where there seemed to be a crowd of grape pickers staying, who left rather noisily at 6 am!  The next night we were near Calais, in readiness for the shuttle home.  It seemed strange to be back at Les Erables, from where the journey had started, after five weeks “on the road”.

And now we are home and shall enjoy reliving the trip as we sort out the photographs.

For the record:

Total number of miles - 2156
Number of nights away -  35 (3 staying with friend in Germany)
Number of sites/aire - 15

Details of sites/aire posted separately for ease of reference


Tuesday, 27 September 2016

Burgundy (Autun, Vezelay, Auxerre, Gurgy)

23-25 September

The Wanderer(s)

We had decided that this part of the trip would be made up of a few one-night stops and the first was in Autun, which was one of the most important cities in Roman Gaul. But before we found the camp site, we called in at the remains of the Roman Ampitheatre, which is very impressive, and would have held up to 16,000 people.



Camp Municipal de la Porte d'Arroux proved to be a very “relaxed” site, where the reception only opens morning and evening, just find a pitch and make yourselves at home and report to the office later. After a quick lunch, we hopped on our bikes and cycled the 1 km into the town to have a look at the 12th century Cathedrale Saint-Lazarre, which is famous for its fantastic carvings – on the pillars, depicting Bible Stories and Greek mythology, and a typanum of the Last Judgement.





On the way back through the town, we stopped at a creperie; well, you can't come to France and not eat at least one crepe, can you?

From Autun the next stop was Vezelay, a tiny hilltop village and a Unesco World Heritage Site. The Basilique -Ste-Madeleine sits at the top of the village, overlooking the beautiful countryside. Another impressive typanum shows Jesus seated on a throne, radiating his holy spirit to the Apostles. The relics of St Mary Magdalene are to be found in the crypt, which led to the monastery becoming an important pilgrimage site in the 11th and 12th centuries. Today the pilgrims are replaced by hordes of tourists.




A short hop of just 30 miles then took us to Vincelles and Camping Les Ceriselles.



This site is literally yards away from the River Yonne and Canal du Nivernais and there is a 62 km cycle path which follows the water from Auxerres to the north, to Clamecy to the south. We spent two very enjoyable hours cycling here in the sunshine, and being Saturday, there were plenty of other cyclists, walkers and even roller-bladers enjoying it too.



From Vincelles we drove to Auxerre, about 9 miles, hoping it would not be busy on a Sunday and that it would be easy to find somewhere to park. We were right on both counts! There is a large parking area to the east of the river opposite the cathedral, where there were lots of motorhomes parked up (under the trees to the right of the picture).  We assume this was Campertstop Auxerre, although there was no sign to confirm our assumption and coaches and cars were parked there too. But it was free and suited us perfectly.

Abbey

A short walk over the arched footbridge, from which there are lovely views, took us into the town for a wander around the deserted streets, past the cathedral, the abbey and the Tour de l'Horloge.

Clock tower

After a spontaneous lunch stop to sample an ethnic Boeuf Bourgignon we travelled just another 6 miles north to Gurgy, where there is a delightful aire on the banks of the river Yonne.



An unexpected bonus was the arrival of a Frenchman, who sells local wine from a wooden cabin every evening. An impromptu tasting session resulted in Theodora having to accommodate a few more bottles of wine (funny how you can always find space for that sort of thing!) Monsieur was very friendly and although the conversation was in a mixture of French and English it was most enjoyable and instructive.



Thursday, 22 September 2016

Burgundy - Beaune

18-22 September

Sisters of Mercy

A journey of 169 miles took us to Beaune, one of the main wine centres in the Burgundy region, where we stayed at Les Cent Vins, a municipal site. The highlight of our stay here was undoubtedly the visit to the Hospices de Beaune (Hotel-Dieu). Commissioned in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin to treat the sick and the poor, the building remained a hospital until 1971, with various modifications throughout the years. For its entire existence the Hotel Dieu was home to an order of nuns, who cared for the patients. The Gothic building has stunning turrets and pitched rooftops, covered in multicoloured tiles. Apparently this type of roof is typical in Burgundy.



Armed with our audio guides we probably spent two hours there, admiring the Grande Salle, where the patients were treated and with a chapel at one end




and taking a look at the pharmacy and kitchens.



There are also tapestries to admire plus the Polyptych of the Last Judgement. This used to be located in the Grande Salle but it is now housed in a separate room, under ideal conditions for its preservation.

While in Beaune we cycled part of the Voie des Vignes (The Vineyard Trail) which runs from Beaune to Santenay.



This is a lovely ride, with vines covering the fields and slopes for miles around, and in every village the wine-producers open their “caves” for visits and tastings. We only got as far as Mersault, which is a beautiful village. Its town hall is crowned with another pretty roof and we sat near the fountain for a while to watch the world go by. We also read that there had been a hospital in Mersault to treat leprosy, which had collaborated with the Hotel Dieu in Beaune in 1760.



While in Beaune we also visited the Wine Museum and walked along the ramparts around the town.
Although this makes for a pleasant stroll, they are not especially stunning, actually being incorporated into the edge of the town, with residences and vehicular access. They certainly don't compare to the likes of Chester or York (mes apologies, Beaune!)





Wednesday, 21 September 2016

Annecy

15-18 September

For whom the bell tolls

The rain overnight quickly passed over but the mountains remained shrouded in cloud, so it was very lucky that we were at St Gervais yesterday to make the most of the good weather. Our next destination was Camping Les Rives du Lac at Sevrier, 6 km south of Annecy. Having already supported the French economy with our payment for the Mont Blanc Tunnel toll, we opted to travel toll-free. It was a journey of only 49 miles, but Snoopy SatNav predicted it would take 1 hour 40 minutes. This was largely due to the nature of the D1212 between St Gervais and Ugine, which passes through the Gorges de l'Arly. Needless to say the road was very winding and hilly. We only came across one suitable lay-by for a stop, unfortunately on the other side (north side) of the road but that fitted in with a lunch break, and gave the brakes, which were getting hot and starting to smell time to recover.

The site is located by the lake, where swimming is possible and although it is not far from the main road, it's very quiet. We went into Annecy by bus and wandered around the delightful old town, with its narrow streets and floral displays.





Later we chose one of the many restaurants for the menu de jour. Our waiter was a Daniel Craig look-alike and he was a cabaret act in himself as he attended to the thirty or so customers, manoeuvring around the closely-packed tables under the canopy.

Saturday was rained off, but we used the time to plan the next part of the journey, to go to the supermarket and to visit the museum, attached to the Paccard Bell Foundry and located only five minutes walk away. Paccard is one of just three bell foundries in France, has been owned and run by the same family for seven generations and has supplied bells to places all over the world. A film, fortunately also available in English, was very informative, detailing how the bells are made, a complicated and skilled process involving a brick inner core, sand and wax mould and an outer shell to create the mould.  The majority of the process is done manually, including paddling the mix of 78% copper and 22% tin, melted at a temperature of 2200 degrees – not sure if that was Centigrade or Fahrenheit, but either way, very hot! . It looked pretty dangerous to us! Health and Safety???



Thursday, 15 September 2016

St Gervais-les-Bains

13-15 September

Clear white light

We belatedly discovered that the site we had earmarked in St Gervais-les-Bains closes on 15 September so for speed we opted to drive from Etroubles via the Mont Blanc Tunnel and tried not to dwell on the cost! Despite the hills and hairpin bends, John assured me that the drive had not been too bad; I could confirm that the scenery around Mont Blanc was breathtaking!

As we pulled in to the site (Les Domes de Miage) I was gobsmacked. We were met with large open grassy spaces and views to die for. Perhaps we had arrived in paradise!



Plenty of space!

View from our pitch 

While we relaxed during the afternoon, a single hen pecked at the grass around us and would not be shooed away. John remarked that he was surprised that the bird had not been made into coq-au-vin (or should that be coq-au-van??)




The main reason for the visit to St Gervais-les-Bains was to ride on the Mont Blanc Tramway. There were four good reasons for getting up at stupid-o'clock so that we could ride on the first train at 8.30 am; one, to benefit from clearer weather; two, to avoid the crowds; three, because there was a bus from the site at the appropriate time; and four, to benefit from a discount on the fare for the first train only!

Happy chappie waiting for arrival of the train
So by 9.45 we were sitting outside a tiny cafe/walkers' refuge overlooking the Bionnassay Glacier at about 2400m above sea level with no other person in sight. Hot chocolate has never tasted so good!

Hot chocolate time!
It was awesome, and so peaceful, except when a helicopter flew by, strangely below us. It was quite chilly until the sun's rays peeked over the mountains to the east and then it quickly warmed up.

Bionnassay Glaciier

25% gradient of the Mont Blanc Tramway

We broke the return journey to St Gervais at Col de Voza for a short walk and picnic lunch.

It appears that we have used up our sunshine allocation for the moment as there was heavy rain overnight, so we may be able to justify bringing the waterproof jackets after all.