Somerset (2)

 June 28 - July 3 2022

Strawberry fields forever

Tuesday 24 June, time to move on!  But only 7 miles up the road to the Caravan and Motorhome Club site at Cheddar.  John had agreed to a quick trip into Wells before we left so that I could buy a pair of shoes I had seen in a wonderful, independent shoe shop, Basil Powell Shoes.  Then we drove to the Cheddar Reservoir, just beyond the site, for lunch in the van and a walk beside the reservoir as far as the sailing club.  By this time we were well beyond the 1 pm check in time so proceeded to the site to get settled.  There was just time to walk into the town to get our bearings and suss out the various restaurants for a future evening (evenings?) before returning to the van for dinner and the onset of rain.

As lovely as most Club sites are, this one doesn’t quite match the Wells Touring Park.  The layout on the side where we are pitched seems rather like a car park, whereas the Wells site was much more open and greener with a view over the surrounding countryside.  But on the plus side, the Cheddar site is closer to town.

The weather has definitely taken a turn for the worse.  We planned to have a cycle ride this morning (Wednesday), along the nearby former railway known locally as the Strawberry Line. but just as we were ready to leave, the heavens opened.  Not to be thwarted we waited until the rain had passed then cycled along the Strawberry Line (access is about half a mile from the site) as far as Axbridge, just a couple of miles away.  We had read about a good tea-room there, The Almshouse Tearoom, which was located on the High Street and hard to miss.  It turned out to be not only a tearoom, but a second hand bookshop too, although it was difficult to have a good browse in the rather cramped space.  There was seating downstairs, upstairs and in a courtyard.  Another heavy shower was just coming to an end as we left, to head back to the site.  More rain fell as we deliberated over lunch how to spend the afternoon.  We decided on a short walk to Cheddar Ales, where John and I had flights (3 x one third pints) of ales and ciders respectively.  We sat chatting outside to a couple who were also on the CMC site, comparing notes on trips to New Zealand.  Suddenly it was four fifteen and we had missed the opportunity to buy any ale or cider as the bar closed at four o’clock.  Very sad.  We’ll just have to pop back sometime in the next few days.

What a lovely surprise to wake up to a blue sky and sunshine this morning (Thursday).  As it was forecast to stay dry all morning, we decided to have a walk to view Cheddar Gorge from above.  It was a fairly steep hike, partly through woods, but the 180 degree views over the gorge itself, Glastonbury Tor, Brent Knoll, Cheddar Reservoir, Bridgewater Bay and Hinkley Point power station under construction, were magnificent. 

Panoramic view from the top of the Gorge

Looking along the Gorge

The gathering storm...

Trouble was, we could see dark clouds and heavy rain looming.  It might just miss us, but best head back.  Two thirds of the way down the weather arrived, not just rain, but hail stones too (it’s June for heaven’s sake!) and despite sheltering under trees, we got soaked.  Back in the van we dried off, changed clothes and warmed up with cup-a-soup and didn’t venture out again until the evening when we walked into town to the Indian restaurant, Spice Village.  And it stayed dry all the way there and back!

Friday 1 July: time to give the cycles another outing.  We drove through Wedmore, which looked a delightful village with lots of amenities, to the Avelon Marshes Visitor Centre, where there was plenty of parking and no height barrier, and picked up various leaflets about the nature reserves.  A two mile cycle ride passed along the Shapwick Heath Nature Reserve to RSPB Ham Wall, where the parking would have been even better for a motor home (but refreshments more limited – take your choice!)  After a picnic lunch we sought shelter from a heavy shower beneath the canopy of the RSPB hut and chatted to one of the volunteers.  I have always wanted to come to Ham Wall in the winter to see the starling murmurations and the volunteer reminded us how busy it gets then and that it’s necessary to bag a parking space at about 2 pm.  

Ham Wall

From Ham Wall we walked along part of the Ham Wall loop and to various bird hides.  Throughout the time we spent on the marshes we saw great white and little egrets, herons, cormorants and two juvenile marsh harriers (confession: we had those pointed out to us!) as well as coots, swans and numerous female ducks of indeterminate type.  Unfortunately we didn’t spot the bitterns which three people said they had seen.  A really enjoyable day rounded off with a barbecue, courtesy of John, back at the site.

Today, Saturday, was always forecast to be grim so it was a conscious decision to spend much of the day in the van.  But we did manage a quick walk to Sainsbury’s to stock up supplies before the rain set in.  Then we enjoyed reading the paper over hot chocolate / coffee and croissants and later on a full English brunch.  Sorry about all the washing up John!  The weather gave me a good reason to watch more Wimbledon matches in the afternoon.  By 4.30 the rain seemed to have stopped so we went out for a walk through Cheddar Gorge, identifying where we had stood on Thursday to take photographs looking down into the chasm.  This time the photos were looking up and I think you appreciate the size of the gorge more from down below.  

While we were out we bought some Cheddar cheese to sample when we get home, just as the shop was closing.  As delighted as we were to see a clear blue sky at about 8 pm, it was also very annoying.  A bit of sunshine earlier in the day would have been much appreciated.

We spent our final day on the bikes, cycling on the Strawberry Line again but further this time, although we did stop in Axbridge for coffee.  Not at The Almshouse Tearoom, which was closed, but at Ripleys Antiques, which also provided a tasty bacon toastie.  Apologies, I am beginning to sound like a guide book for tearooms!  The beginning of the cycle trail is narrow, windy and not well maintained in places but gradually improves, then uses the road on each side of Axbridge, after which if broadens and is a much more pleasant ride.  It proved to be very popular with both cyclists and walkers, many with dogs. You just need to take care in a couple of places where it crosses busy roads.  We passed by Winscombe before arriving at Sandford, where there is a Railway Heritage Museum comprising a restored station building with an array of railway artefacts and several pieces of rolling stock outside, including a locomotive which had worked at the nearby quarry. 

On the return leg we were enticed by a sign to leave the trail to cycle into Winscombe and find The Pantry for another coffee.  Further delights were on offer; different flavoured Victoria sponges and mini quiches, all home-made. It seems our current philosophy is to support local businesses, so we came away with a quiche to supplement our picnic.  Just before rejoining the trail, we came across a tiny garden, which had been designed and made by local boys as part of a Duke of Edinburgh project, funded by the Parish Council.   It was a good spot to demolish our lunch before getting on the bikes again.  There is a 200 yard (or so) tunnel between Winscombe and Axbridge and on the return leg we remembered to switch on our rear lights and use our phones’ flashlights as illumination at the front.  Axbridge was having Open Gardens this weekend but we resisted the temptation to stop; there was also a large gathering of people in the centre of the town and a band had just started to play, but we weren’t sure what that was all about.  Once back at the site it was lovely and sunny so out came the chairs for the first time at Cheddar, although I admit I had a catch up on Wimbledon first of all.  Home tomorrow, with a probable stop at Gloucester Services for a comfort break and change of driver.