Spanish Trip 2 - Salamanca to El Rocio

26 September to 3 October

Let the sun shine in

We had an enjoyable second visit to Salamanca, travelling in by bus, which can make life interesting. The convent we wanted to visit didn't open until 4pm so we were "forced" to shelter from the sun under the canopy of a bar, which happened to have churros (long thin doughnuts). Imagine my disappointment when the waiter only brought out sugar, not the customary melted chocolate, to accompany them. 

The church attached to the convent, especially the altar, was one of the most ornate we have ever seen, apart from the plain glass windows.

After the convent we climbed the university bell tower, for more great views over the fabulous buildings, and then had a very disappointing dinner before the Plaza Mayor lights came on. We all took loads of photos in the illuminated Plaza and of the cathedral, university and convent,

Plaza Mayor, Salamanca

then caught the bus back to the site, finding it rather difficult to recognise where we were in the dark. However, the bus driver had, in fact, understood our request to tell us when to get off, so no problem.

Next day (Sunday 29th, I think!) we had a long journey to Seville, noting the rich orange-red soil and olive trees on the way. It was not a particularly interesting journey, but was efficient travel on a quiet motorway, with no tolls!

The next two days were spent exploring Seville. The cathedral is said to be the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and was certainly impressive, particularly the ceilings, altar, choir and sacristy. The display of clerical vestments, some dating back hundreds of years, and the tomb of Christopher Colombus were interesting too. 

Seville Cathedral

We meandered through the narrow, winding streets of the Jewish quarter, coming across small, peaceful plazas and then the Jewish interpretation centre, which described the persecution of the Jews in Seville throughout the ages. In an attempt to reduce the queuing time, we opted for a guided tour of the Alcazar (Royal Palace) and our enthusiastic leader imparted a great deal of information as we admired the wonderful feast of paintings, mosaics, and stonework. The gardens, comprising mostly formal pathways through trees, did not have the same wow factor but provided some respite from the heat. We also walked to the Plaza De Espana in the Maria Luisa Park, which was designed by Anibal Gonzales for the 1929 exhibition to promote trade between Spain and South America.

Plaza de Espana, Seville

Sadly Gonzales died before its completion. The Plaza and building are impressive and there was the added bonus of a group of five Spaniards playing guitar, singing and performing flamenco on the steps. There was plenty more we could have seen but we all agreed that two days in a city, especially in the heat, was enough.

El Rocio was the next port of call, where the campsite is situated on the edge of the Donana National Park, renowned for its wildlife, especially birds. We knew that there would not be a large number of birds at this time of year but the lagoon close to the campsite had actually dried up due to the very dry spring and recent hot weather. Barbara and Clive had booked a guided tour in a minibus which took them further into the park where there was more activity. 

El Rocio itself is a very strange place, looking like a deserted wild west town with its whitewashed buildings and sandy roads.

Sanctuary of Our Lady of El Rocio

Apparently the place comes to life on Saturday evenings, with horses, horse and carts, flamenco .....  The highlight of the year occurs fifty days after Easter when the annual pilgrimage of various brotherhoods to the shrine of La Blanca Paloma occurs, a celebration combining religion and fiesta.

Next stop, El Puerto de Santa Maria .....