The Big Trip 7 – North Island (North)

2 - 7 March 2018

Concerning Hobbits

While in Rotorua at the request of the Lord of the Rings fans (John R and Jane) we visited the Hobbiton film set at Matamata. We walked around the lovingly constructed part of The Shire with its many Hobbit holes created in fine detail, ending with a tankard of ale (or cider or ginger beer) in The Green Dragon.

On the final day in Rotorua after a quick dip in the thermal pool we left the site and then drove into town and parked by the lake for a late breakfast. We walked to Kurai Park where there are more thermal pools and conveniently passed an "artisan bakery" to grab a baguette and enormous chocolate eclair for lunch. We also found a wonderful handicrafts shop, where I was able to get supplies for a knitting project.

After that it was on to Waitomo, where we were booked into one of the best sites of the trip (good facilities, lovely quiet location, small pool). Next morning we had a visit to the Waitomo Glow-worm cave - the limestone formations were impressive and the boat trip under the clusters of glow-worms on the roof was amazing. Back at the site we decided to chill out for the rest of the day and enjoy the glorious weather.

The next part of the journey took us towards Auckland, but as we haven't done many miles (ha ha) we took a diversion to Kawhia and Ocean Beach. They were well off the beaten track and although a nice contrast to tourist hotspots, in the words of the Michelin guides it did not 'mérite le détour'!

A one-night halt at Orewa Beach followed. We knew that the site was close to the beach but hadn't quite expected to be almost parked ON the beach! It was delightful and before breakfast next morning John and I had a paddle in the sea.

The next stage took us to Waitangi, through some delightful scenery often as high as the top of the pine forests, overlooking first one side of the island, then the other. This is the furthest north we shall stay.

Live from 90-mile beach towards Cape Reinga!

We are just having the most surreal experience, driving along 90-mile beach in a normal coach at approx. 60 mph with the sea 20 metres to our left and sand dunes a similar distance to our right. We shall be making a stop but not just yet as apparently the tide is coming in so we need to be at the far end of the beach in readiness for a hasty departure. The driver is occasionally using the horn, not because of other traffic, but to scare birds out of the way. We have seen one or two other vehicles.

We have just negotiated a bluff necessitating driving into the lapping water to avoid soft sand! The strip of sand between sea and dunes has visibly narrowed. Apparently 90-mile beach (originally unreliably measured by how long it took a horse to walk it - 3 days) is actually about 75 miles in length.  We have stopped for a paddle, to photograph the Hole in the Rock or just to wonder at the huge expanse of sand.

The highspot was a second stop at ginormous sand dunes where about a third of the passengers tried sandboarding. John and I bottled out of that but John N represented England very well. 

We exited the beach in dramatic fashion, splashing along a shallow stream which flowed into the sea. Poor coach! It seems rather boring to be back on the road.

Cape Reinga, not the most northerly point of the North Island (that is North Cape), is the point where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean collide and is a very spiritual place for the Maori. 

We walked to the lighthouse and took plenty of photos of the spectacular scenery. On the return journey we stopped at Puketi Forest, where there are Kauri trees over 1000 years old. We shall visit the Waitangi Treaty Grounds before moving on.